Poland produces most goose meat in Europe. Germans don`t know any other than Polish during their protestant Christmas.
However, goose meat isn`t too popular here. The main reason - price.
Eat goose promotion launched
12.11.2010 09:07 Thirty top restaurants throughout Poland (including four in the northern Kujawy-Pomeranian region) will be serving goose for two weeks in November.
The move in line with a campaign promoting goose meat launched for the second year running by the Kujawy-Pomeranian local authorities, advocating “A goose for St.Martin’s Feast”.
Polish oats-fed white Kołuda goose is a special type of farm-raised bird from the Geese Research and Breeding Centre of the National Institute of Animal Production in Kołuda, supplier of breeding material for goose farms nationwide.
A truly domestic Polish strain of geese is the Rypin goose, classified at the beginning of the 20th century and renowned for its delicate meat.
All the restaurants taking part in the campaign will be presenting at least three goose-meat dishes on the menu. A similar campaign held last year scored considerable success.
This year’s ”St.Martin’s goose” was launched on Independence Day November 11, also the Feast of St.Martin, at special markets and fairs, serving goose meat delicacies and introducing a special currency for the occasion; organised in the largest cities of Kujawy and Pomerania: Bydgoszcz, Grudziądz, Inowrocław, Toruń, Włocławek and Rypin.
Formerly prepared in an uncountable number of ways, but often forgotten these days; goose has always been present in Polish culinary literature. As early as 300 years ago Stanisław Czerniecki shared his recipes, which included a goose cooked in wine and a hot and sour goose ragout.
According to Father Jędrzej Kitowicz, who described customs in the times of King Augustus III, a “black goose” dish was very popular as well. How did one prepare it? A cook needed to singe a bunch of straw (nowadays, roasted straw is a popular ingredient among innovative Polish chefs), add a spoon of honey, stir in some vinegar, and mix it with some burnt straw, pepper and ginger. In Kaszuby, a cultural region in the north of Poland, autumn was the season for the preparation of goose lard. This type of fat is also regaining its fame and is now available in many shops. In the past, goose lard, seasoned with salt, pepper and marjoram, would be served on bread or as a soup seasoning during the whole winter season, similarly – okrasa– a type of a spread with goose meat is another northern speciality. Warm milk with honey and lard was regarded as a cold remedy. Goose lard was also very popular in the cuisine of Lithuanian Jews, as they “barely use any butter, are gluttonous for the fat – goose lard, that is”. Authors also wrote that “congealed goose lard is perfect on bread, stir-fried with salt and marjoram or marinated apples.”
Soups and pottages were always a part of Polish cuisine; it’s not surprising that some of them were made using goose. These include: krupnik – a barley soup – made on geese stomachs, czernina (sometimes also spelled “czarnina”) – a blood soup – made with goose blood, a sour soup with oats, and in the rich cuisine of the Kaszuby region: a swede/rutabaga soup (the so-called “war” vegetable which became infamous after World War II) made with a whole goose or gapio-zupa – a type of broth made with goose giblets and potatoes.
Take a look into any random old Polish cookbook to understand the culinary abundance of goose dishes. Besides the classical goose roasted with apples (probably the most popular goose recipe in Poland), goose would also be stuffed with sour cabbage, groats or chestnuts, goose breasts would be served in sour cream, and smoked sausages would be made of chopped goose meat. Stuffed goose necks were a part of both the Jewish and Polish culinary traditions. Nowadays, this speciality is most likely to be found in restaurants specializing in the cuisine of the Ashkenazi Jews. Goose meat was also prepared in jelly (the so-called galareta), and goose livers ended up as pâté or mousse, prepared in both Polish and French styles (e.g. foie gras – the Strasbourg type), with the addition of other types of meat, delicate veal thymus or fresh oysters. Sausages were made from goose livers mixed with marjoram, wine and crayfish butter and cooked in broth.
The aforementioned Półgęsek, a type of smoked, cured meat made from raw goose breast – is nowadays associated with the Kujawsko-Pomorskie region, but many recipes come from old cookbooks published in Vilnius, L’viv, Warsaw or Kraków as well.
“Wallowed in bran, półgęski should be smoked as any other cured meat” – the authors wrote. “One who has many geese can cut and salt them, and store them under ice until spring (…). Salted półgąski are excellent when cooked and served with horseradish.”
The author of the Praktyczny kucharz warszawski / Practical Warsaw Cook book from 1889 advised rolling the półgęski and smoking them with cloves, lemon peel and pimento. Would you care for a dry goose pudding? You will need some goose giblets, an onion, root vegetables and beaten egg whites. “Cook it in boiling water and serve with a spicy mushroom or mustard sauce”. Author: Magdalena Kasprzyk – Chevriaux, December 2014
I have only tried goose once, for a Christmas dinner years ago. It was quite nice but not cheap. Not sure if I would buy it again, it is quite fatty. Although goose fat is very good for producing extremely crispy roast potatoes. I much prefer duck breast. Very nice with a spicy orange sauce. I also really like foie gras, but I can't eat it any more after discovering years ago how it is produced. Extremely cruel.
At one time goose was extremely popular, but that was quite a long time ago now. I tend to think of Victorian times when I think about goose. I would say that the majority of Brits would have turkey for Christmas dinner.
Nor here, not for a long time. Probably still sold in posh food shops, but I think people are more cruelty aware these days. In France they produce loads of the stuff. It really does taste delicious but I can't bring myself to eat it now.
Well, we don't have Thanksgiving at all as you know, but I think Americans definitely have it for their Thanksgiving dinner. As long as I can remember turkey has been the meat of choice at Christmas. We had pheasant as a change for one Christmas but I can't say I was very keen.