Recommended does and goes in Poland

[Bonobo]

Winter Treats and Thrills
Warsaw Voice
17 December 2008

The coming winter break is a splendid opportunity to try winter
sports and see the most glorious parts of Poland in a winter setting.
As usual, skiers will head south to the most attractive winter
resorts. Hotels in the Polish mountains have plenty of accommodation, but bear in mind that some hotels are already fully booked by schools and travel agencies which organize winter vacations for children and groups of adults in January and February. Before you pick your skiing destination, it is thus a good idea to find out whether hotels in the region have free rooms left at a specific date. You may also want to make sure you will not get wedged between one group of vacationing kids and another.

Skiing, spa and adrenaline
Individual tourists who enjoy skiing are welcome at the Amber Hotel
in Rabka-Zdrój, a prime health resort with a good climate and nine
wells of therapeutic waters used to treat respiratory tract and blood
circulation system diseases. The Amber Hotel is located near two ski
stations and a large skating rink.

When you are done skiing, check out the Amber's comfortable spa
facilities. Women visitors will be delighted by the beauty and20anti-
cellulite treatments and various kinds of massage available here. In
a nearby health center, Amber Hotel guests can use mud baths,
physiotherapy, therapeutic exercises and inhale healthy vapors. Other attractions provided by the hotel include sleigh rides and parties, expeditions to a water park and the Podhale Thermal Springs, and a sightseeing trip to Cracow. For those who crave adrenaline, the Amber Hotel has activities such as paragliding with instructors, Tyrolean bridge, wall climbing, paintball, quads, and rides in off-road vehicles. Amber still has vacancies and so you have a chance to book a room and take a vacation in these beautiful Polish mountains.

Ice and Eskimos
If you do not feel like skiing, but want to lose a few pounds quickly
and stay healthy, check out the elegant Ognisty Ptak hotel in
Wêgorzewo in northeastern Poland. This recreation and conference
center in the Mazuria lake district offers an attractive rejuvenation
and weight loss package on license from Dr. Bardadyn, a famous Polish structural diet expert. The seven- and 14-day weight loss programs with spa routines help tired Warsaw residents shed some weight and years and improve their appearance while being taken care of by physicians and beauticians. Ayurvedic massage, hydro-massage, aqua aerobic, yoga, outdoor activities and local attractions such as ice- boats, kitesailing, ice fishing and rides in sleds drawn by dogs are some of the healthiest forms of entertainment for families with kids and anyone who needs a breath of fresh air.

In Wêgorzewo, you can also try the Eskimo program, a unique
attraction unavailable elsewhere in Poland. Rides in dog-drawn sleds, a teepee made of reindeer skin, Finnish sleds and games in an Eskimo scenery add to an unforgettable experience for every child.

If you feel like spending your winter vacations with a touch of the
Middle Ages and knighthood traditions, go to the Ryñ Castle Hotel in
the Mazuria region. Accommodation in castle chambers is definitely
worth a try. The hotel also offers a spa, swimming pools, a fitness
room, curling, iceboard, snowskating and hovercraft rides across
frozen lakes. Do not miss the traditional Polish cuisine which has
won the hotel a prestigious award.

You may also want to ask about rooms at the elegant Magellan Hotel near Warsaw. The hotel houses the largest Spa & Wellness Institute in central Poland, providing practically all treatments to guarantee that once your winter vacations are over, you return home relaxed, younger, more beautiful and totally in love with the place.

[Bonobo]

The legend of the Black Madonna
By Belinda Olivares-Cunanan
Philippine Daily Inquirer
12/23/2008

...Because of its location in the former Eastern Bloc, Poland is not
a major destination, but it is beautiful and we tried to see as much
of it despite zero weather. Its capital, Warsaw, was the most
destroyed country in World War II and the old part of town had to be
rebuilt from the rubble. Today it is just a shadow of its old elegant
self, judging from big poster-pictures put up in strategic sites. The
Poles know that Manila was the second most destroyed city in the War, and that instantly formed a kind of bond between us. Today Poland is trying to pull itself up and is classified as one of the two fastest emerging countries of the old Eastern Bloc, along with Romania, but it is still a long way from catching up with the prosperous economies.

* * *

One Sunday we decided to take an early train to Czestochowa, home of
the "Black Madonna" which the late Pope John Paul revered so much.
Today it is the third biggest pilgrimage site in the world. In Poznan
we had told a Polish couple of our intention to visit and they said
with a smile, "She's so special to us Poles." The ride took over five
hours, leaving us just enough time to attend Mass at the Monastery of
Jasna Gora, where the image is enshrined, before catching the same
train back to Poznan, arriving there at almost 11 p.m. The Madonna's
dark features, blackened from the soot of centuries, is shrouded in
so much tradition and legend, and as one source put it, the intensity of her stare seems to stress "suffering past and suffering to come" perhaps for her beloved Poles.

* * *

Legend says the image was painted by the Evangelist St. Luke from a
cedar table made by Christ himself and where his mother Mary used to
take her meals. In 326 A.D., St. Helena, the mother of the first
Christian emperor of Rome, Constantine, found it in Jerusalem and
gave it to her son who built a shrine for it. It is said that during
a battle with the Saracens he put it up on the city wall and the
invaders retreated at the sight.

Over the centuries it was moved by many people. But in 1382 invading
Tartars attacked a fortress of Prince Ladislaus, where it was
located. An arrow was lodged in the Madonna's throat and the prince
decided to bring it for protection to his birthplace in Opala. While
they were on their way, his party rested in Czestochowa where the
image was kept overnight at the monastery of Jasna Gora's little
Chapel of the Assumption. The story is that next day the horses
refused to move, which is how it came to rest in Czestochowa.

In 1430 that church was invaded and a looter struck the face of the
Virgin's image twice, but before the third blow he fell in pain and
died. To this day the sword cuts and arrow wound remain visible,
despite repeated restoration attempts. Over the centuries the Virgin is credited with having helped repulse pre-Reformation Hussites in 1430, the Swedish army in 1656 and the Soviet Red army in 1920, so that along the way she was declared Queen of Poland and its protector. In contemporary times, the end of Soviet totalitarian rule is ascribed to her help. As a writer put it, "Poland's spiritual heart is Czestochowa, and the latter's spiritual heart is Jasna Gora Monastery; in turn, Jasna Gora's spiritual heart is the Black Madonna."

[Bonobo]

Gdansk picked by DK Eyewitness Travel
Polish Radio
29.12.2008

Poland's Baltic port city of Gdansk has been named among the ten best cities to visit next year by bestselling city guidebook publisher DK Eyewitness Travel. 'Reputed to be the new Krakow in 2009, Gdansk's Old Town has been spruced up and the picturesque Bergher houses that line its streets are interspersed with an influx of new hotels, restaurants and shops.'

The Mayor of Gdansk Pawel Adamowicz is proud that the city has been picked in this ranking and that its promotion is producing effects.





img525.imageshack.us/img525/8336/img0462kopia10sk.jpg

[Bonobo]

Poznan: Making its mark

Stevie Emilia

The Jakarta Post

12/27/08


Poznan - Before hosting the recent climate change conference, the Polish city of Poznan might have been an obscure dot compared to Warsaw or Krakow. The international event has helped put it on the world map.

While walking through the city's alleys and byways, I discovered Poznan had more to offer beyond the conference. It is an historic trove, surrounded by ages-old buildings and museums rich with artwork and the history of emperors and kings.

Poznan is also a place where visitors can actually meet the locals; experience authentic Polish food, wine and its signature vodka (for some); relax; and enjoy the night with live music.

A Polish conference-goer, Pawell, said the best season to visit Poland and Poznan was summer, when people take advantage of what nature had to offer and visited the country's many lakes and forests.

"It's sad, but many people come to Poland only bent on visiting the former concentration camps," he said, referring to the camps set up by the German Nazis in Poland, as elsewhere, during World War II, to implement the regime's horrific Final Solution.

Poznan has experienced a tumultuous past, but today it is a modern city dotted with five-star hotels, top fashion boutiques and shopping malls.

The city, one of Poland's oldest and the fifth largest, is currently home to over 500,000 residents.

Even during frosty winter days, the city is lively and warm with many activities.

Though up to my ears in the conference schedule, I had to get out and about, for sustenance at least. With not much time to spend in and around the city, on good advice I headed straight to the Old Town area to start my explorations from there.

The trip was not hard to arrange. I only had to hop on board one of the many trams passing through city center.

I set off walking, passing through the monument to Adam Mickiewicz, the 19th-century Polish poet. I happened upon the Emperor's castle, one the home of Kaiser Wilhelm II which now houses Zamek Cultural Center Zamek.

I never made it to Poznan's cathedral, the oldest in the country, which, I hear, contains tombs of the first Polish rulers, such as Duke Mieszko I. But time was not on my side.

My meanderings brought me to the central square in the older part of town. Surrounded by many upscale boutiques and restaurants, the square still retains its aura of the past, with four fountains honoring Neptune framing the square and the Town Hall proudly showing off its Renaissance architecture.

These days, the square was packed with Poznanians and tourists lured in to enjoy the Christmas bazaar, either to shop for tree decorations and gifts -- from silver jewelry to fur coats -- or simply to enjoy being out with their families.

Even the restaurants went along. Chefs dressed up as Santa to charm parents to come in for a meal with their children in tow.

Real Polish food was everywhere in robust proportions. The most-touted dish was bigos. This national dish is a hunters' stew made from sauerkraut, sausages, ribs and a variety of vegetables and the ever present potato. Two other popular dishes were kielbasa, or Polish sausage, and kotlet schabowy or breaded pork chops.

Evenings are an excellent time to enjoy lighter fare. Pierogi are Polish dumplings filled with different combos: meat and cabbage; potatoes, cheese and onions; or fruit. They are prepared either boiled or fried. Being a gorengan fan, fried was definitely my choice.

Street fare was not the favorite of many facing the nippy evenings, so the Old Town square restaurants filled with conference attendees savoring local delights. Delicious, yes, rich, definitely and heavy, assuredly -- all served up in classic European restaurant style.

Whatever I sampled, I found the Poles, both the customers like me and the waiters, to be proud of their food.

They talked about how their growing methods have been little affected by the mass industrialization of food industries elsewhere. Farm fresh has real meaning for them, and I was asked to consider the taste of their eggs with real yellow yolks, the flavor of the homemade butter, and whether I enjoyed freshly picked cucumbers or sauerkraut.

I must have looked like a real newcomer to the city, because a Polish couple offered me a real tourist's welcome one night out.

They entertained me with a popular legend about the early development of the Polish state, Gniezno, how it formed its first capital, and its emblems.

The story started with three knights -- brothers -- who were walking through the forest looking for a place to settle and start a town. They found a picturesque lake and a huge oak tree with an eagle's nest in its branches.

One of the brothers, Lech, decided it was the ideal place for him. He stayed and called the place Gneizno, meaning nest in old Polish. The two other brothers continued their journey. "Do you know where they went? It's easy to figure if you know their names, Rus and Czech," they laughed.

The legend might be just that, a legend, but across Poznan, Slavic languages still dominate, with far more people conversant in Russian than in English.

As time ambled toward midnight, the bazaar stalls closed but the night was still young so many people sidled into bars, where they could share jokes over cold Lech beers. Just like them, with Diana Krall's soft jazzy tunes playing in the background, we were ready to welcome the night.

Poznan travel tips:

*Better to stay in a chain hotel unless you speak the language.
*The Polish currency is the zloty and the best place to exchange currencies is at the airport arrival area.
*As a foreigner in need of a taxi, try to order by phone. But if you find yourself in a desperate situation, make sure it has a meter and the meter is running.
*The city's tap water tastes a bit off, and it is advised you boil it before drinking.
*Most shops stay open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. on weekdays but they close early at 2 p.m. Saturdays. No stores except the major shopping centers and art galleries are open Sundays.
*Public toilets are hard to find in public places. Desperate tourists can seek respite in the hotels or restaurants, though some establishments may ask you to pay.

[Bonobo]

Warsaw steps out of the shadows

Poland's capital has been voted a top 10 city to visit by Lonely Planet. Sankha Guha finds out why

Independent, UK

Sunday, 23 November 2008
City of defiance: Warsaw's Old Town, seen here reflected in a puddle, is famously not old at all, having been rebuilt brick by brick in the 10 years after the Second World War

ANDRZEJ RYBCZYNSKI/EPA

City of defiance: Warsaw's Old Town, seen here reflected in a puddle, is famously not old at all, having been rebuilt brick by brick in the 10 years after the Second World War



Warsaw is a modern city of wide boulevards, skyscrapers, advertising hoardings, traffic jams, shopping malls and a thriving population of 1.7 million people. People live normal 21st-century lives here; they look as ordinary as the residents of Milton Keynes, and their aspirations are probably no different from MK-man.

And yet, given its recent history, the whole city is an act of will. Every day it must wake up and, against the weight of its past, Warsaw must assert its normality. And every day the nightmares are still here – under the stucco, between the cracks, in the soil. Warsaw breaks your heart. And then it breaks it again.

I am driving though a large square in the Praga district on the east side of the Wisla (aka the Vistula) with my guide Agnieszka. From my car I notice a huddle of people including a priest laying a few flowers at a small monument. "Oh we have many of these," says Agnieszka, "From the war. Where the Nazis shot maybe 50, 60 people picked up on the street as a reprisal whenever one of their soldiers was killed by the resistance." Later I learn there are more than 500 such mini-memorials in Warsaw.

The Praga district was spared the worst destruction and is one of the few places where you get a sense of what the pre-war city looked like. This is where Polanski filmed The Pianist, re-creating the Jewish ghetto, on streets such as Ulica Stalowa. It has a reputation as a dangerous area, certainly after dark. There seems little reason for tourists to venture here, but we stumble upon restaurant Pod Karpiem, at 37 Ulica Stalowa, which could serve as a perfect film-set not so much for wartime Warsaw but for the period that followed.

The untouched 1970s interior is a stylist's dream. Everything from the bare linoleum floor and plywood panelling to the lumpy carvings of jolly party folk that decorate the walls is evocative of communist-era austerity. There is little nostalgia for those times, and it's hardly surprising the local clientele stays away in droves. Proprietor Artur Wielechowski is hoping that tourists, ironically or genuinely appreciative of retro style, will book the restaurant for themed events and save his business. But I fear this address is more likely to be hosting a Starbucks in the near future.

A new bohemian set is colonising Praga and the Hoxtonisation of the area is under way. The Koneser Vodka Factory on Ulica Zabkowska still makes vodka (Zytnia, if you are interested), but it is also home to a sprawl of galleries, workshops and a theatre. The yard beyond the mock Gothic gatehouse is dotted with sculptures; most are of the rusting industrial metal variety, but among them I find Amy Winehouse. She is carved out of a single tree trunk and the somewhat literally minded sculptor Jozef Nowak has called his piece "Amy" to obviate any shred of ambiguity. Fans of Madame Tussaud will like.

A few short minutes later I am across the river in the Muranow district where the Jewish ghetto once stood. It is the scene of one of the worst crimes in history and the sheer ordinariness of the surroundings is shocking. There is nothing left. After the ghetto uprising in 1943, the Nazis did a thorough job of razing the ghetto, and then the communists, equally determined to leave no trace, went on to obliterate the site under acres of ugly tenement blocks. The ghetto occupied a third of old Warsaw; it imprisoned 400,000 Jews – and there is nothing left.

Unbelievably, there is not even a museum of the ghetto – though there is one planned (see jewishmuseum. org.pl). A few scattered monuments bear witness but they are almost by definition inadequate. A white marble memorial on Ulica Stawki marks the spot known as Umschlagplatz from where 300,000 Jews were transported to their deaths in Treblinka. The architects of the simple monument have engraved an A to Z list of first names popular among Jews at the time. There were too many; we must remember them only by their shared first names.

Somehow the Jewish cemetery on Ulica Okopowa survived the German onslaught. There are thousands of macevas (tombstones) marking graves from the past 200 years. Among them I find a wide empty circle surrounded by a series of white stones that bow inwards. The circle is concave, like a crater. This is the mass grave of some of the people who died of starvation, disease and random execution in the ghetto. As the thousands of bodies in the pit decompose, they take up less space and cause subsidence. It dawns on me that the dead don't rise from their graves to haunt us – they sink. But they still haunt us. With tears welling up, I feel numbed and curiously a part of me feels guilty – as if simply being here makes me complicit.

Later, back in Praga, I catch a jazz concert at Fabryka Trzciny. The venue is another former factory converted into an arts centre. The industrial chic of the bar recalls the complex's previous life as a marmalade and then rubber factory. Tonight, Norwegian singer Solveig Slettahjell delivers her brand of slow and deeply personal songs. But it is her unbearably poignant cover of Tom Waits's "Take It with Me" that rips the heart-strings. It is raw and beautiful and the emotion is searing. The audience melts; maybe it is my fevered imagination but they seem primed for sadness.

The Old Town is famously not old. It was rebuilt after Hitler, enraged by the Warsaw uprising in 1944 – distinct and separate from the Jewish ghetto uprising in 1943 – ordered the city's destruction with the chilling phrase "turn it into a lake". Pictures taken in 1945 show a wasteland more total than Hiroshima. This demolition, however, was meticulously planned and executed at ground level by special "Burning and Destruction" detachments of the SS. Most of the Old Town was re-created in the 10 years following the war, brick by brick, until they had a perfect full-scale working model of what used to be theirs. Standing in the rebuilt Rynek (market square), you sense the pretty "medieval" façades are built of something stronger than bricks and mortar – it is defiance.

Warsaw's resistance against overwhelming odds is celebrated in the Museum of the Uprising. It opened in 2004 on the 60th anniversary of the uprising and has rapidly established itself as the most popular museum in the city. My visit coincides with Independence Day and I jostle with parties of excited school kids who are clearly engrossed by the interactive exhibits. The subject may be grim but the atmosphere is almost party like. Despite the mind-boggling casualties – 200,000 dead – the commentary on the events of August 1944 is coolly restrained. The mask slips only once. A picture of Stalin, who ordered his army on the far side of the Wisla to do nothing while the Germans reduced the Old Town to ashes, carries the caption, "Joseph Stalin, the embodiment of evil". It is a rare glimpse of Warsaw's rage.

The national holiday also brings out the crowds to the city's biggest green space, Lazienki Park. Sometimes derided as grey and dull, Warsaw is, in fact, blessed with a generous quota of parks. Parents are enjoying a lazy stroll while their children stalk the free-range peacocks to get a snapshot on their mobile phones. Dogs are walked and lovers are embraced.

The Museum for Contemporary Art is housed in Zamek Ujazdowski, a castle that overlooks the park. It is closed today but some of the conceptual art is outside. I find a series of marble benches engraved with wannabe aphorisms. An example: "Silly holes in people are for breeding or are from shooting." Most have the taint of smart-arseness about them. But the last line on one bench catches my attention: "It is in your self interest to find a way to be very tender." Elsewhere, such ham-fisted irony might seem glib. In Warsaw it is the lesson of history.

[Bonobo]

Long weekends abroad: Crack Krakow

Liese Spencer

The Guardian, UK

Saturday 24 January 2009

Krakow has been occupied many times over the centuries. First by Sweden and Austria, then by the Germans during the second world war, and finally by Russia, which liberated it from the Nazis only to establish it as a Soviet satellite for more than 40 years. These days, like many eastern European cities, it is largely occupied by stag parties and sightseers from the west. And the great magnet that pulls them all together is the vast medieval Market Square. While one tribe drinks its way around the cheap bars, the other circles it by horse-drawn carriage, snapping away at the grand Cloth Hall and Basilica of the Virgin Mary. And yet it's surprisingly easy to give your fellow tourists the slip here and find yourself wandering alone through quiet courtyards or the leafy boulevards of Planty Gardens - the green belt of parkland that divides the Old Town from the rest of the city.

Arriving in the grey early morning on a sleeper from Berlin, our first stop was the Hotel Copernicus. In a city of architectural landmarks, the Copernicus is a destination in itself - a beautiful Renaissance building on the oldest street in Krakow. After more than 24 hours on the train, however, I'm ashamed to say that our primary interest was in the breakfast bar. Dropping our bags and piling our plates, it was some time before we stopped eating long enough to notice the marbled floor and glass ceiling far above us.

At last, suitably stuffed, it was time to plunge into the heritage playground on our doorstep. After walking the cobbled Royal Route past the Church of Peter and Paul with its life-sized statues of apostles and watching the quaint, wooden figures perform their cuckoo-clock show at the Gothic Collegium Maius (alma mater to Copernicus), we pressed on to the Czartoryski Museum for a look at Leonardo da Vinci's Lady With An Ermine. Municipal museums can be rather deadly, but this one snagged our attention with its eccentric collection of armour, sculpture and Egyptian curios, including a mummified falcon.

Then it was south and into the once vibrant Jewish quarter of Kazimierz, where Spielberg filmed scenes for Schindler's List. The area's Jewish population was all but extinguished by the Nazis, but it is still possible to trace its history through the Old Synagogue on Wolnica Square and the Remuh Synagogue and cemetery. In the main market square, we took our cue from lunching Poles and lined up at one of the many booths in the old circular building on Plac Nowy to buy an open sandwich. Zapiekanke - huge heated baguettes, split in two and covered in melted cheese, mushrooms and chopped chives - are the perfect fast food, and all for the equivalent of £2.50.

Unesco world heritage jewel it may be, but there are only so many of Krakow's baroque churches, gargoyles and ornate altarpieces that you can soak up in one weekend, so the next day we decided to thumb forward in the history books and pay a visit to Nowa Huta, the Soviet showcase suburb built after the second world war to house the city's steelworkers. Less than 20 years ago, Krakow citizens had to put their names down on a seven-year waiting list for a Trabant. Now you can hire one of the iconic eastern-bloc tanks to tour this masterpiece of socialist-realist planning - stopping off at an authentically dowdy Soviet restaurant and time-capsule flat before ending your journey at the still-operational steel mill.

While there's undoubtedly something strange about this kitsch packaging of such recent history, there's also something fascinatingly immediate about it - our young driver supplemented his guidebook spiel with first-hand stories of family life: how his uncle spent his days at the steelworks drinking vodka and sunbathing on the roof, and how his mother was refused a pay rise after not turning out for a May Day parade. We'd read in another of our guidebooks that the same team also offered stag parties the unique opportunity to be chased through woods in the dark by baying dogs, which, after our postmodern "Crazy Communism" tour, sounded not at all unlikely. But the reality turned out to be rather more mundane. No, our driver explained, they just put them in the back of a transit van with a pole dancer and drive them around the Old Town.

Getting there

Return fares from London to Krakow start at £487. To book, call 0844 848 4070 or go to raileurope.co. uk.

Stopover

Berlin.

Stay at

The Relais & Châteaux Hotel Copernicus, 00 800 2000 00 02 (toll free) or relaischateaux. com/copernicus

To tour

Nowa Huta by Trabant, contact Crazy Tours (0048 5000 91 200, crazyguides. com).

[Bonobo]

Poland emerges as a top European destination
2009-02-26

Poland may not have topped your list of destinations before, but this year we strongly believe that you should reconsider. It’s a good idea to visit Poland in 2009 if you’re fed up with the world economic crisis, argues POLISH MARKET editor-in-chief Krystyna Woźniak Trzosek.



Poland 2009 may not be an island of economic stability, but according to European Commission forecasts, it can still expect a healthy 2 per cent GDP growth, instead of a decline. If that doesn’t put Poland at the front of the European league, I don’t know what does. In this edition of POLISH MARKET we hear about that from Solidarity icon and former Polish President Lech Wałęsa and economist Professor Leszek Balcerowicz, who was the first who successfully engineered the transition of a major European economy from post-communist shambles into a thriving market economy. The two examine the sources of the present crisis, but they are also able to see a light at the end of the tunnel. They think the crisis offers opportunities for Poland and Europe’s future success. Chances for successful contacts with Poland are also explored by top businesspeople, experts and administration officials. We also offer proof of how determined Poland is in its desire to join international structures in a National Bank of Poland report which discusses the country’s quest to adopt the single European currency.

While bravely defending its economic aspirations, Poland has no intention of giving up its involvement in other spheres of life. As many as seven Polish cities vie for the title of the European cultural capital 2016. It may be seven years away, but taking up the challenge now means that it may well be seven fat years fort Polish culture. Poland promises to abound in crowd-pulling European and world-class events. The cities that are in the running for the European Cultural Capital apart, other Polish cities can hardly be expected to turn into a cultural desert. There will surely be plenty for culture vultures in Poland and beyond to choose from, what with a wealth of music, film, theatre and visual art events happening all year round.

Interestingly, having focused on making money in the early stages of transition from communism to democracy, more and more ordinary Polish citizens are now increasingly turning to culture. Tickets for major theatre productions in Warsaw, Krakow and other Polish cities now need to be booked well in advance. Top international stars increasingly include Poland in their world tours, aware of the mass and enthusiastic turnout at the concerts. Local cultural events flourish. Clubbing has taken off in a serious way in trendy urban centres. Smaller towns take bold steps to let the world know about their local tradition. European visitors come in droves to discover not just Warsaw and Krakow, but also to explore the traces of other cultures. Among Poland’s best kept secrets is an attraction to rival Romania’s Count Dracula trail – Mary Shelley’s ‘Frankenstein’ was inspired by a spooky castle in what is now Ząbkowice Śląskie in the south-western province of Lower Silesia.

2009 promises to be a good year for sports fans. In recent years Polish ski jumper Adam Małysz, Formula One racing driver Robert Kubica, the Poland national volleyball team and Lech of Poznań football team won international acclaim. They seem to have finally put Poland on the map. International sports organizations are beginning to place more and more prestigious events in Poland. The calendar of this year’s events in Poland includes world cycling, rowing, car racing, hockey, body building, angling and dance championships. European volleyball, women’s basketball, aerobatics and motor racing events will also be held in Poland. Several Polish cities will be hosting World Cup events.

It seems like a good idea to visit Poland this year not just to do business or take part in one of the many events. It’s well worth exploring the less known attractions of Poland such as windsurfing, sailing, ice skating, whitewater rafting, paragliding, trekking, horse riding, agro-tourism, paintball, bird watching, rock climbing and motor sports. Not forgetting Poland’s many spas and beauty clinics.

If you’re wondering how much all that’s going to set you back, here’s the good news. The Polish currency, the zloty, is now trading at its lowest to major world currencies, so expect your dollar, pound or yen to go much further. In 2009 Poland promises to be one of the most reasonably priced destinations in Europe. Get ready for some bargain shopping, too. Poland is now home to the world’s major retail chains. With its many spectacular new shopping centres, many say, Poland is well on its way to become a shopoholic’s paradise. And if you’re looking for local colour, there’s still plenty of traditional shopping to be done.

Visitors agree that in the past two decades Poland has taken giant strides in improving its tourist infrastructure and conference facilities. The ten thousand participants of last year’s UN climate conference in the mid-western city of Poznań were clearly well impressed with the facilities and services. Other important events are to follow. In 2011 Poland takes EU presidency, which means the need to organize 1,500-odd meetings and conferences. Add to that the UEFA Euro 2012 football championship hosted together with Ukraine, which is expected to attract an additional 2,000,000 visitors to Poland. Clearly they all expect to travel and stay safely and in comfort, and that’s exactly what Poland intends to provide.

www.polishmarket.com.pl/document/:19284,Poland+emerges+as+a+top+European+destination.html

[valpomike]

This is what I have been saying all along. Go now, and see the best, and have the best time of your life.

Mike

[Bonobo]

Lanckorona Frozen in Time
Friday, October 3, 2008
Grazyna Zawada
The Krakow Post

Driving about forty minutes southwest from Krakow will take you back in time. Lanckorona is a village located 500 metres above sea level, on a forested hill at the foot of medieval castle ruins, and to get there you need to take the one and only minibus line from Krakow, or simply jump in a car. Until 1934 the place was technically a city, and it has kept an urban layout, with a unique, sloping market square and streets branching in four directions. The market square looks like a miniature wooden city, with a mosaic of very old and sometimes comically small timber houses, still inhabited to this day. In one of the streets you can find an old bakery famous for its delicious bread and pastries made in an original, ceiling-high furnace. What's great is you can knock at the door at any time and the bread will be there for you.

Due to an extraordinary stillness and "nothing to do" atmosphere, Lanckorona is a mecca for artists, who come there to rest and look for inspiration, as well as Cracovians coming to enjoy a weekend rest. Fortunately, the village has not turned into a tourist-cramped wooden Disneyland. Lanckorona may disappoint those searching for sensational discoveries and thrills, but it opens up for people who humbly approach new destinations and want to take in a place just as it is.

"This is a place in which you cannot do anything by force; here you can improve what already exists by bringing it out to light and dusting off its natural beauty," says Zofia Oszacka, the borough leader of Lanckorona district. Oszacka has done much for the region: during the past six years of her governance, Lanckorona has won numerous awards for the best local government in Malopolska area and for the best use of EU grants.

At first glance Lanckorona is a forgotten old village where nothing happens ? but that?s all up to the visitor. It's a potentially magical place, a background for romantic walks, long chats in a charming pavement cafe, learning handicraft or taking part in Lanckorona's festivals - like the Angels in Town Festival, where children dress up as angels and distribute Christmas greetings and best wishes among the townspeople. There is also Romantic Lanckorona, a festival for lovers, and the Midsummer's Eve Fair to mention a few.

Today, due to the enormous commitment of the borough leaders, the whole district - composed of five villages in total - is flourishing with investments. New anti-slide road reinforcements, pavements, and a revamped sewage system are now being developed, making the place visibly modernised. With a cash injection from the EU, local Lanckorona associations have started small businesses such as a souvenir shop, a cafe and a tour service company to help promote their beloved home and facilitate a stay in Lanckorona for future newcomers.

See the houses
www.ga.com.pl/lanckoro.htm

[Bonobo]

24 hours in Warsaw
WA today
April 17, 2009

Tim Richards takes in jazz, Chopin and dramatic wartime history.

No one could accuse Warsaw of having a dull history. As the capital of Poland since the 16th century, it has borne the brunt of many invasions. At the end of World War II it lay in ruins, devastated by Nazi demolition and the Soviet battle for its liberation.

The Poles rebuilt their capital, symbolic of their stubborn determination to survive as a nation. The result is an intriguing blend, a core of beautifully restored classical buildings against the backdrop of overwhelming concrete structures from the communist years. As the nation's business hub, Warsaw has a wide array of dining and entertainment options, from medieval cellar restaurants to cutting-edge nightclubs.

9am

Polish restaurants rarely open for breakfast, which is a great reason to visit a bar mleczny (milk bar). These humble eateries are a remnant of the communist era, when the socialist authorities underwrote a network of low-cost cafeterias to feed the working man who couldn't make it home for lunch. Step into Bar Pod Barbakanem, in a fantastic spot next to the Old Town's remaining fortified walls, order from the absurdly cheap menu of simple Polish dishes, then share a tiled table with a fellow diner and reflect on life during the Cold War. Bar Pod Barbakanem, ul Mostowa 27/29; phone [phone].

10am

Step through the gate of the nearby Barbican into Warsaw's Old Town and stroll to its beautiful market square. The apparently centuries-old square is impressive, until you realise that it was completely reconstructed from rubble after the war, which upgrades the place to inspirational. Grab a coffee at one of the cafes here or wander the attractive narrow side streets; if you're looking for communist-era collectables, Lapidarium has a good selection of authentic gear. Lapidarium, ul Nowomiejska 15/17; phone [phone]; see lapidarium.pl.

11am

Walk from the Old Town's Royal Castle south along the Royal Way, the route traditionally taken by Polish kings. This impressive boulevard is lined by significant churches, palaces and museums. The famous Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, is commemorated in the Chopin Museum, just off the Royal Way. Chopin Museum, ul Okolnik 1.

1pm

Further south, in Warsaw's central business district, is ulica Nowy Swiat (literally "New World Street"), a vibrant shopping strip. At the southern end of the street, step into Sense. This super-cool cafe-bar symbolises 21st-century Warsaw, combining Polish traditions with international food and intriguing architecture. Have lunch and order a glass or two of its home-made ginger rose-infused vodka - it's sensational. Sense, ul Nowy Swiat 19; phone [phone]; see www.sensecafe. com.

2pm

Head further south to Lazienki Park. This serene green space was laid out in the 17th century, when it took its name ("lazienki" meaning "baths") from a bathing pavilion. It was later the residence of the last king of Poland, Stanislaw August Poniatowski, who had the beautiful Palace on the Water constructed here. Lazienki Park, ul Agrykola 1; phone [phone].

4pm

Nothing could be less soothing than the Warsaw Rising Museum but this exceptional institution is essential to understanding the city's troubled past. Opened in 2004, on the 60th anniversary of the wartime Warsaw Rising by the populace against their Nazi oppressors, it presents an excellent set of exhibits outlining the dramatic history of the doomed two-month revolt. Warsaw Rising Museum, ul Grzybowska 79; phone [phone]; see 1944.pl.

6pm

To extend your understanding of the city's postwar years, head to the towering Palace of Culture&Science west of ulica Nowy Swiat. This vast complex was a gift from Stalin to the city in the 1950s. It houses cinemas, theatres, museums, shops and a large conference hall. Walk around its base and spot the numerous statues of workers striving for socialism. Palace of Culture & Science, Plac Defilad; pkin.pl.

8pm

After all that history, you could probably do with a chuckle. Something that Poles do well is the themed restaurant. Across the nation you'll find blond, blue-eyed Polish waiters dressed up in Scottish kilts, Japanese robes and Chinese cheongsams, as the theme demands. Have dinner at the London Steak House, a restaurant containing every cliche about England that the owners could cram into its decor. Place your order for fish and chips with a waitress wearing a Union Jack scarf and miniskirt. London Steak House, Al Jerozolimskie 42; phone [phone]; see londonsteakhouse. pl.

10pm

For nightlife you are spoilt for choice. Head to a nightclub in the central business district or, for more highbrow entertainment, take in an opera at the spectacular Teatr Wielki at Plac Teatralny 1. A happy medium, however, would be supper and music at jazz club Tygmont. The Poles fell heavily for jazz in the heady years after World War I, when the nation had just regained its independence for the first time since the 18th century, and they still have a soft spot for it now. Tygmont, ul Mazowiecka 6/8; phone [phone]; see www.tygmont. com.pl.

KLM, Air France and Swiss Airlines have fares for $1350, flying a partner airline to Asia and to Warsaw via their European hubs. (Fares are low-season return from Melbourne and Sydney, excluding tax.)

[gigi]

Apr 22, 2009 7:53:55 GMT 1 Bonobo said:

24 hours in Warsaw...

Wow - what a fabulous (albeit tiring?) day!

[valpomike]

It is good to see that the Polish have a good ear, and also love Jazz Music.

But on my trips, I had a hard time in finding any Jazz Clubs. And I know they are out there, some place.

Mike

[Bonobo]

Apr 22, 2009 20:15:31 GMT 1 valpomike said:

But on my trips, I had a hard time in finding any Jazz Clubs. And I know they are out there, some place.

Mike

Because they are deep underground.

[valpomike]

If most of the Polish love Jazz Music, why are the clubs underground, and hard to find?

Do they not want to share with the tourist?

Mike

[Bonobo]

Gdansk unrolls largest tourism ad campaign on CNN

thenews.pl

24.09.2008


Under the slogan, "We make things happen," CNN has just launched the largest promotional tourism campaign featuring the northern city of Gdansk , with the intention of attracting visitors from Europe to the Baltic seacoast.

The Gdansk campaign is not the only international activity to promote Poland . As this campaign launches, another one promoting the whole of Poland will simultaneously be launched. "We hope that these joint campaigns will make a bigger impression on the audience," says Anna Zbierska from the Gdansk Mayor's office.

Also, between the 6th and 12th October, in addition to the CNN "Eye on Poland" programme, the TV station will show set of reportages about Polish cities.

The feature element of this TV-cum-internet campaign is a 30-second film spot titled: "We make thing happen." The theme is a small paper boat which blows around in the wind under the roofs of Gdansk and floats onto the water, showing at the same time the beautiful coast and the city's panorama. This rather artistic, poetic, magical film was directed by Tomek Zalewajek and produced by Papaya Films.

The advert will be shown 275 times, including 173 times on prime-time at CNN International TV, starting on September 22nd

Additionally, CNNs various websites will feature 530,000 banner ads of Gdansk . The whole campaign is directed to European citizens especially from Great Britain , Germany and Scandinavia but also to the tourists from Central-East Asia and Africa .

To see the film visit Gdansk 's web site www.gdansk. pl/multimedia? film=true&play=59

[Bonobo]

Krakow: Daytrips by Car

The Krakow Post
11th May 2009


A guide to getting out of the city, if only for a weekend...
Krakow, like most cities, can occupy your time quite well. But a trip by motorcar past the city limits can connect you to the richness of Poland in a way that buses or rail cars never will. Rolling hills, green forests and striped fields mix with small towns and roadside bars (eateries for travellers and locals). The sight of storks perched in their large nests high above on telephone and electrical poles is a charming feature. And, there are few tourists. We've organised these tips to help you see more of Poland. Enjoy your drive.

Driving Tips

Rule No. 1: Plan early! With summer road construction and works for the Euro 2012 football matches, roads will be full. Krakow to Wroc³aw, for example, may take the usual four hours on an upgraded road. But there's little chance of a four-hour drive from Zakopane to Krakow on a Sunday night. Plan on seven or even eight.

On the roads it may seem you have accidentally turned on to a Formula 1 track. Tailgating is extremely common, and passing seems chaotic. Don't be stressed – just slow down, move to the right and let cars pass you by. Drive defensively. Take turns driving.

More important notes. Don't trust GPS completely. Take an updated paper map as well. Some GPS units see planned roads in Poland as actual roads. Gas stations are plentiful and prices are usually competitive. They may not always be easy to get into and out of, however, so be aware of other traffic and people. See the "Laws" section for more, but don't forget that if you've had any alcohol it's best not to even think about driving.

If you can get out of the cities, you'll find driving Polish country roads to be a wonderful experience, full of beauty and adventure.

Laws

Navigating Polish roads is not as daunting as some have made it out to be, but nonetheless there are some things you'll have get used to if you plan to drive in Poland. First off, you must have a valid driver's permit from your home country or international driver's permit. Like most countries, Poles drive on the right side of the road. Speed limits are posted clearly on roads, but if they are not, a general rule is 50 km/h in towns, 90 km/h on smaller roads outside urban areas, and 130 km/h on highways. Watch for reduced speed zones. They can change quickly from full speed to in-town speeds over a short distance. Headlights must be on at all times (day and night), and seatbelts should be used for all passengers. Cars must be equipped with a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit and a hazard-warning reflective triangle.

Finally, if you plan to have a drink with dinner and drive, remember that permitted alcohol content in blood is 0.02 percent – no exceptions. Polish police are not usually forgiving, whether it comes to speeding or drink driving. No matter how good a story it may make one day, you really don't want your holiday ruined by a night in a Polish jail.

Car Rental

Car rental in Poland ranges in price, from cheaper compacts to pricey luxury vehicles, but most will agree it beats getting lost in Krakow's PKS (national bus service) station any day. It's also getting easier to rent than ever before. There are several car rental companies in Krakow to choose from, but they all operate on a very similar set of rules.

First of all, the driver must possess a valid driver's license, and have been driving for at least one year. If you're visiting from outside of Europe a valid international driver's license is necessary. The minimum age for renting a car usually starts at 21 years, going up to 28 years of age to rent the more expensive cars.

Rental fees vary from company to company, but in general you can expect to rent a small car that's enough for a day trip for about 200 PLN for 24 hours.

Most companies include auto insurance in the price, but make sure to ask first. If you're paying with a credit card, check with your card company about insurance outside of your country. Also keep in mind a refundable deposit is required, usually from a credit card at about 1,000 PLN. You can also keep your eyes on the road, and not on your map, by renting a GPS system for your car for a small fee. Make sure to tank up and return the car on time to avoid any surprises on your final bill.

Be sure to check out the exclusive deals with Avis and Acecar that the Krakow Post has arranged for you.

Places to Visit

Niepo³omice (see photo) used to be a hunting lodge for Poland's Renaissance monarchs. But in truth, it's more like a full-blown castle. The lodge would be worth a visit in itself, but it has an added trick up its sleeve in the form of one of Krakow's best collections of Polish art, currently on loan from the Cloth Hall Gallery. Enjoy stirring canvases from the 18th and 19th centuries. Afterwards, you could go for a stroll in the Proszowo forest, which has a bison sanctuary.

Just a couple of miles north of Ojców is the castle of Pieskowa Ska³a, which looks like it might be the lair of Count Dracula himself. The residence was originally one of the "Eagles Nests" that protected the region during the medieval era. Altered and expanded many times over the centuries, the castle boasts a princely courtyard, and inside there is a delightful exhibition of art and artefacts culled from the Royal Collection at Wawel. A real standout.

Tyniec Abbey was founded in the eleventh century by King Kazimierz the Restorer. It crowns a bulbous, rocky escarpment above the Vistula, and its strong defensive position elevated it to fortress status during later epochs. Getting to the Benedictine Abbey is straightforward enough, as it's just 15 minutes or so from Krakow's centre. Pack a picnic or head up to the monks' very own restaurant, which boasts produce sourced from the order's private estates.

Half an hour's drive from the city centre is the lush valley of Ojców, the whole of which is protected as a national park. It's a very idyllic place, with ruined castles and villages full of quaint wooden houses. Rising up out of the hillsides are fantastical limestone rocks. These have a distinctly Tolkienesque flavour and you really feel that Frodo and his chums could emerge from behind a boulder at any moment. The ideal stopping point is the lovely village of Ojców, which has several restaurants and gateways to trails through the valleys.

[Bonobo]

Pensioners let loose on Poland
Otago Daily Times, New Zealand
02/06/2009


The resort town of Zakopane is much like Queenstown. Photos by Robin Charteris.

Doing the Malapolska (in which former Otago Daily Times editor Robin Charteris and his wife Judi tootle around southern Poland and the wintry foothills of the Carpathian Mountains in Bluebell, a little Citroen hire car).

As we get older, our travel plans seem to revolve around a combination of places and events memorable from previous visits spiced with self-organised forays into personal terra incognito.

Thus we had no set agenda on this latest trip to Poland save once again to enjoy Krakow, endure nearby Auschwitz-Birkenau and revisit the famous underground salt mine at Wieliczka, then move on to explore the southern Polish countryside.

Krakow was sheer delight, as the accompanying article shows, the salt mine was as impressive as we remembered and the extermination camp lived up to our memories and its reputation (even if we were perplexed to find a pool hall full of bored local teenagers and pokie machines inside the tourist complex in the over-flow carpark, and the only other obvious overseas visitors a mainland Chinese tour party).

But, 23 years on, we had forgotten one of the major difficulties of driving in Poland: the road signs.

Actually, it is more the names than the signs themselves; how can driver or navigator recognise Sucha Besckidzka, Zubrzyca Gorna, Szczebrzeszyn or even the briefer Sczcawnica while admiring the countryside, keeping up with the traffic flow, sticking to the right and looking out for the next giant truck and trailer or ambling horse-drawn cart crossing in front? By the time we'd practised pronouncing the name of the next town, Rzepedz, Rzeszow or Trzetrzewina was upon us and we were totally tongue-tied, completely confused.

Last time, we'd had a know-it-all teenager-cum- natural-navigato r to whom the unusual mix of consonants was a doddle.

This time we were pensioners let out on our own.

Getting out of central Krakow in our newly-acquired Citroen C3 (named Bluebell for our apartment hotel of that name to which it was delivered, plus its colour) during a mid-morning snowstorm wasn't easy, but we made it, eventually, once we'd clicked on to the aeroplane signs for the airport and then followed a bus to Highway 44 and on to Oswiecim.

It was almost plain sailing after that, as the (very) large, fold-up map of Malapolska we'd bought was extremely comprehensive, until we ran off the right-hand side of it and were forced to navigate using an A5 guidebook map of Poland that showed virtually nothing east of Krakow until the Ukrainian border.

Malapolska might sound like the Polish version of a well-known Bohemian dance but it means Little Poland, and refers to the country's southeastern portion bounded by Mazovia to the north and the Carpathian Mountains, shared with Slovakia and Ukraine, to the south.

It was the mountain bit that appealed to us, so we turned Bluebell hard left after Auschwitz and headed for Poland's alpine resort of Zakopane in the foothills.

Zakopane was reminiscent of Queenstown: mountain surrounds, lots of skiing, river rafting, upmarket hotels, restaurants to burn and plenty of people.

It had no lake, but it did have a McDonald's, roasted chestnuts, street musicians, lovely trees and almost too much snow, this being late winter.

In the summer, Zakopane is the centre of a frantic hiking industry, so it qualifies as a year-round resort.

It was a lovely place, really, with snow-cleared streets to stroll, good shopping (great for grandchildren' s shoes and fashion boots), clean, fresh air and hospitable people.

We stayed two nights, joining a long queue of families for the cable car up Mt Kasprowy Wierch, a 4290-metre-long ride, 50 to a car, that took us to within a few metres of the mountain-top border with Slovakia.

Had it not been for the whiteout conditions, we might have walked a little beyond the 1985m we were at and briefly and illegally entered the next country, as is the custom, apparently.

Everyone else skied down the excellent pistes, then through the pine and larch forests to the base of the mountain; we lunched on local pizza and tea before descending by cable car, then horse-drawn carriage to our warm and comfortable two-star pension (160 zlotys, or $NZ96 a night for two, breakfast included).

As we headed east along the Carpathian foothills afterwards, we encountered typical small-town Poland. Villages, each centred on large Catholic churches, were well apart and well settled.

Only the largest had accommodation available, so we had to drive to bigger towns each night. Snow was a constant and enjoyable companion.

It was a metre and more deep on the wooded lower slopes of the Carpathians; paddocks were like virgin lakes, fir, larch and pine trees stark and bare-limbed with pure white topcoats.

The main roads were constantly swept clear by snowploughs and graders, but minor, perhaps even more interesting, routes were beyond little Bluebell, who came unequipped with chains.

Once we tried a mountain short-cut, but discretion and deepening snow eventually beat us and we turned back.

Strangely, we never felt cold in the 10 days we spent exploring the Malapolskan countryside.

It was below freezing much of the time, especially in some of the blizzards we drove through, but the car was warm, as were shops and buildings we entered and all the hotels/pensions we stayed in.

Towns and villages have communal central-heating systems that pipe, underground, hot water to every building. Even inside remote rural service stations, staff were in shirtsleeves.

The days were short. Dusk fell before 5pm, and we always made sure we had a hotel room by late afternoon. That allowed time to explore the town zentrum and poke into a few shops.

Soups, or zupys, are a Polish staple and we enjoyed many fine broths as a full meal. Zurek was popular; rye-flour soup thickened with sour cream, served with a hard-boiled egg and sliced sausage.

So too was krupnik, a thick barley soup with lots of vegetables and small chunks of meat. Judi especially liked a thick brew that came in a hollowed-out loaf of bread. Most cost about 8 zlotys ($NZ5), so we dined cheaply.

Wines were a revelation. A crisp white from nearby Moldova was a favourite, but cheaper were Spanish and Czech chardonnays at 8-10 zlotys a bottle.

The national drink, vodka, was everywhere and cheap.

Language was a minor issue at times. Despite Poland's membership of the European Union for the past five years, most rural Poles lack exposure to the education and sophistication of their counterparts in Krakow, where the young especially speak excellent English.

But mime, gesture and goodwill are great assistants, at least with people. Those dammed road signs, menus and notice boards continued to confuse.

As tonsil-torturing towns such as Sucha Beskidsa, Nowy Sacz, Kraslczyn, Przemyzl, Rzeszow and Nowy Wienicz came and went, and all too soon the outskirts of Krakow came back into view, we reflected on the pleasures of tootling about a strange countryside with no set destination.

We'd had a ball; seen new sights and places; met lovely people; enjoyed fine meals and wine; hadn't spent much more than we would have at home; and were invigorated.

It doesn't suit everybody, of course; but it's our sort of travelling. It means we dance to our own polka.

[Bonobo]

Historic incentives

By Nick Foster

The Financial Times

June 27 2009



Rows of houses in Gdansk, Poland

In the 1980s Poland's burgeoning Solidarity movement made the port of Gdansk (pictured above) the best-known – and certainly most filmed and photographed – place in the country. To the outside world Lech Walesa's activism at the city's Lenin Shipyard was perhaps the most visible symbol of the Polish – and central European – struggle against communism.

Today, in spite of the global economic downturn, Gdansk, the neighbouring port city of Gdynia and the nearby seaside resort of Sopot – collectively referred to as the Tri-City, with a population of 745,000 – are still attracting foreign attention, this time from bargain-hunting homebuyers and property investors.

"I like Warsaw a lot but the pace of life here is so much more relaxed," says Martin Kitson, 41, the publisher of the In Your Pocket guidebook series in Poland, who is from London but now lives on Sopot's main drag, Monte Cassino Street. "It is also less crowded than Krakow, which is beautiful but saturated with foreign visitors."

At the same time, "things are really moving in and around Gdansk. Trendy hotels, restaurants and apartment blocks have been built on plots that have in effect lain empty since the end of the [second world] war. The pace of development in the 10 years since I have been here has been remarkable."

The five-star Radisson Blu Gdansk has opened in the city centre, while the Sheraton hotel group launched a seaside venue (with spa and conference centre to come) last year. There are several infrastructure projects under way, designed to improve roads, rail connections and the airport in advance of the Euro 2012 football championships, for which Gdansk will be a host city. And Sopot is in line for a marina with space for 100 yachts to be built by 2011.

Construction and investment has, of course, slowed in the past year and a half. But, according to Warren Landers of estate agency Landers Property Poland overseas buyers are still looking at residential buildings that are finished or nearing completion, in part because of the discounts now available. As in other Polish cities, prices on new-build flats have dropped 20 per cent on average, in the past year, while the Polish zloty has also depreciated by about 20 per cent against the euro. "For buyers with euros to spend, it is extremely favourable at the moment," Landers says.

There are also a handful of older properties for those seeking a home with character. Kitson, for example, lives in a 100 sq metre apartment with high ceilings and original mouldings that is connected to the ground level of his building by an impressive wooden staircase. "There are some beautiful houses in Sopot that ... give an idea of how the resort must have felt like in the 19th and early 20th centuries when it was known as the Monte Carlo of the Baltic and the summer haunt of business leaders, politicians and aristocrats, " he says.

The second world war – which in effect started in Gdansk (then known as Danzig) with the German bombardment of Polish positions at nearby Westerplatte in September 1939 – left much of the city flattened. The gabled merchants' mansions and other handsome architecture in the historic centre, dating from the time when the predominantly German Danzig was a prosperous member of the Hanseatic League, have been painstakingly reconstructed and only on tourist maps can one see the old street names from the interwar period when the city was under League of Nations control. At the close of the war those Germans who remained mainly fled west to what would become the Federal Republic – a period memorably evoked in Günter Grass's The Tin Drum – and in their wake came Poles displaced from what is now Belarus, Lithuania and Ukraine.

The communist period saw the construction of concrete tenement rows, an arguably commendable effort to house thousands of new arrivals in a vastly scarred city, which still stand amid a mix of urban villas, strip malls, multiplexes and makeshift car parks. In suburbs such as Zabianka and Przymorze, some of these 1960s and 1970s blocks, now bristling with satellite dishes, sit next to beautiful Baltic beaches, children's playgrounds, allotments and well-attended churches. One block, dubbed "the Wave" by locals for its curved shape, is an astonishing 860 metres long and home to 6,000 people.

"Such flats are quite small but they are well connected with central Gdansk and have all the basic facilities like schools, health centres and shops in the vicinity," says Filip Borkowski, 32, who grew up in the city and now works as an economist in Brussels. They are usually 25 per cent less expensive than equivalent properties built after 1990 and "they score highly with young families even if most people would probably move to more modern accommodation if they could afford it."

For non-locals, however, new-build and prewar properties are of greatest interest. Estate agency Ober-Haus is selling a two-bedroom, 75 sq metre apartment in the recently built 14-unit Symfonia Residence in Gdansk's historic centre for 1.23m ­zlotys (£230,000), as well as a smaller one-bedroom flat, just outside that neighbourhood and in need of some renovation, for 370,000 zlotys. Agents say the average price for existing apartments in central locations is typically 10,000 zlotys per sq metre.

In Sopot, Poland's most valuable property market behind Warsaw, the Arkadia.com property portal lists a 106 sq metre apartment with a working fireplace and private parking in a building dating from 1926 for 1.6m zlotys as well as a centrally located, detached, five-bedroom family home built in 1994 for 2.25m zlotys.

Meanwhile, in Gdynia the best units in the part-office, part-residential Sea Towers complex, slated for completion later this year and set to become Poland's tallest building outside the capital, are available from the Invest Komfort agency for more than 20,000 zlotys per sq metre.

"Foreign buyers are usually only attracted to the best locations and are very much influenced by the atmosphere of the immediate neighbourhood, " says estate agent Grzegorz Dobrowolski.

Albert Smith, 66, a former graphic designer from Hartlepool, north-east England, retired to Sopot with his wife, a Pole, in 1993. Their apartment, a short walk from the town's landmark wooden pier, has doubled in value over the past six years, even taking into account recent price dips. And Smith, who enjoys painting watercolours of the distinctive old houses in the centre of Gdansk, says he loves the lifestyle. "I don't need a car since the public transport is so good in the Tri-City," he says. "You can cycle for miles along well-maintained paths next to the beach or in the woods."

[Bonobo]

Poland Travel - Things to do in Poland
In2town
9/12/09

A trip to Eastern Europe without a visit to Poland is like dancing the polka without the familiar "oom-pah-pah" or eating a pierogi stuffed with air – you'd definitely be missing something.

Poland is not only a cultural mecca in Europe; it's also a country rich in architecture, dramatic in its history, and home to an irresistibly endearing people. In the years following Solidarity's victory over this land, tourism has thrived and people are discovering the hidden treasures that were once only privy to Poles -- treasures that extend from the beautiful Tatra Mountains to the man-made Baroque and Renaissance architecture present in many towns' squares.

When visiting Poland, you need to know what you want to see. Following is a list of the favorites of locals and tourists alike. Some require reservations, so plan ahead.

Krakow (Cracow)

Grab your sneakers and walk around Poland's artistic center. Formerly the capital of the country, Krakow has so much to offer its lucky visitors. In the year 2000, it was chosen (for the 2nd time) as the European City of Culture. Spend some time here and it's easy to see why.

In Old Town, there is the Main Market Square and in the Square's center, you will find Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) . Originally a trading center, it still remains a bustling marketplace with kiosks featuring Polish art, wooden carvings, tapestries, etc. Head upstairs to The Gallery of 19th Century Polish Painting for a true sense of what Polish culture is all about.

Besides the art on the walls, you will notice that the walls themselves are art. The architecture is very eclectic in its periods, ranging from Renaissance to Art Deco. The remarkable architecture of Krakow's churches is so awe-inspiring that it can stir even the most headstrong non-believer into a state of wonder. You might find yourself stuck marveling at the cathedrals until you get a reveille that happens every hour – a bugle call (hejnal) played from St. Mary's Church. It's a melody that is slightly haunting in it's history. The music ends suddenly to symbolize when the original trumpeter was shot in the throat by an arrow as he played a song of warning. Within the church, you'll notice the impressive main altar, which stands 43 ft high, the largest altar from medieval times still in existence. Towering over the hill is the Wawel Cathedral, where you will see The Royal Tombs. There are 100 kings and queens that have been buried here, so you can actually say you've trod upon royal ground.

Take the time to step into any of the numerous museums in the city. Czartoryski Museum, for instance houses a collection of paintings by Polish and western European artists from the 1200's to the 1800's. The collection's most famous pieces include Leonardo da Vinci's A LADY WITH A WEASEL - the most valuable painting to be found in a Polish collection - and LANDSCAPE WITH A GOOD SAMARITAN by Rembrandt.

Another important part of Krakow's history is also one of its saddest. Visit The Jewish Museum, inside the former Old Synagogue – the oldest Jewish building in the country -- to learn about the culture of the Jewish people of Kazimierz, thousands of who were exterminated in Nazi war camps.

WEILICZKA SALT MINE

Only 20 km from Krakow you will find an underground marvel. The Weiliczka Salt Mine is a mine that has been worked for over 700 years. Descend the Earth 180 meters (about 380 steps) and you will find an Atlantis of sorts. Amazing, impressive, awe-inspiring – all three adjectives are gross understatements. When you get down past 100 meters, you start to smell a fresh jungle-after- the-rain smell. The air quality is surprisingly excellent and there are even areas of the mine, special rooms, that are used for medical therapy for those with respiratory problems to sit and breathe the air.

There are ponds and lakes with bridges to cross, and supposedly they even used boats in the mine at one time. They also had horses in the early days that they would lower with harnesses and ropes. Of course, the horses spent their lives down there, once they were lowered.

For centuries, miners have whittled away the gray, salty walls and carved out statues of themselves, saints, heroes, and religious icons. There are full underground chapels and chambers entirely carved out of the salt. Being a very religious country, Polish salt miners carved out their own places of worship, so they didn't have to come out of the mine to attend masses. The atmosphere is one of reverence and as visitors tour the chapels and look at statues, the tones are muffled and hushed – with acoustics resembling a church. One church is the 331 foot deep St. Kinga's Chapel. It was started by one man in 1895 and finished in 1964. It is home to a huge relief of the Holy family carved into one wall and there are even intricate chandeliers made entirely out of rock salt – the detail takes your breath away. Don't worry. You won't have to climb 380 steps back up. There are a couple of small, albeit primitive (think: mine shaft) elevators that will transport you back to this world.

WARSAW

Warsaw, a booming, urban capital, has deep roots in Poland's history. A great mix of old and new Poland can be found in this fascinating city where grandly restored palaces, Socialist Realism architecture and modern-day buildings share the same streets. Do art and culture capture you? How about entertainment? Then be forewarned that Warsaw may end up taking you prisoner without a chance of parole.

About 85% annihilated during World War II, Warsaw suffered the most loss of any Eastern European city. The citizens took on the ominous task of restoring their city into the geographical, political, and economic center of Poland. There is so much to do here, that visitors from all over the world beg for more time in order to see it all. Most of the sites to visit lie along the banks of the Wisla (Vistula) River where shopping, palaces, and the tourist-friendly Old Town await you. Take a relaxed stroll along the Vistula, sit on a bench and watch passers-by young and old smiling, holding hands, loving life. Have a drink at one of the many outdoor cafes, or stop in a quaint shop and you will definitely feel the enchantment of Warsaw.

Old Town (Stare Miasto) tops the list of things to see. You can plan an entire day here. Stand at Castle Square and take a panoramic look around. All of the buildings you see were completely destroyed and restored using old documents/city plans and an Italian artist's detailed city view drawings. To the east of the square you will find the Royal Castle. Its massive structure was also destroyed, rebuilt and finally finished in 1984. Stop in The Castle Museum to learn a little more about this beautiful castle and see some of the original furnishings from the early Polish royalty. Take time to visit Holy Cross Church, perhaps one of the most impressive structures in Poland with its gold altar, large white columns enveloping worshipers and chandeliers hanging from ceilings that reach to the heavens. The people of Warsaw are excited to share their arts with thousands of visitors. From their famous National Opera, music theaters like the Roma and Buffo, the National Philharmonic, and many galleries (try the Zacheta Gallery) and palaces (Two that are sure to captivate are The Palace of Culture and Science and Wilanow Palace ~ the latter designed by Italian Renaissance architects.) As you visit, you'll see that they are justified in their pride.

One great tourist attraction is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, where at noon each day, there is a changing of the guard that is interesting to see. After that, you can walk behind the tomb to the flourishing Saxon Gardens. Smell the lime trees while watching the fountains, pose near the numerous statues and relax near the tree-lined lakes. What a great place for a short respite – it's quite a change from metropolitan Warsaw.

GDANSK

Most famous as the birth of the Solidarity trade movement in 1980, Gdansk is a beautifully restored old town. Main Town is home to some of the finest ornate architecture. Go through the Upland Gate and you will see the two main roads, which form an inviting pedestrian mall known as the Royal Way. As you do a little promenade down this thoroughfare, you will be taking the same route as many Polish kings whenever they visited Gdansk. Pass under a second gate, Golden Gate, which looks a bit like a Renaissance arch, and head east toward Green Gate. As you stroll, you feel the sense of being in the medieval era because it has still retained the same look as when it was built and occupied by wealthy ship owners and merchants.

Some key sites to visit as you go down Long Street to Green Gate are the gothic style Town Hall - done in red brick, Neptune fountain - a symbol of the power Gdansk held as a maritime trade center, and slightly north of Long Street is the not-to-be-missed St. Mary's Church.

St. Mary's Church, quite possible the oldest brick church in the world today, is colossal. It can hold over 20,000 worshippers within its walls. Built between 1343 and 1502, you can see several different architectural features. The ceilings reach for the heavens at 98 feet tall and you are surrounded by different elements from the Renaissance, Gothic and baroque eras. Sculptures like the Beautiful Madonna and the church's 14-meter high Astrological Clock are just two of the things that make a visit to St. Mary's worth the trip.

SOPOT

Just outside of Gdansk, there is another treasure – a 19th and early 20th century seaside town called Sopot. The "Cote d'Azur" of Poland, Sopot attracts tourists looking for a spa-like retreat. It has the country's longest pier/boardwalk, Sopot Pier, which extends 500m into the Baltic Sea. Just like the south of France, visitors come to walk along the beaches, go to the casinos, dine at outdoor cafes and shop `til they drop. Besides the pier, try your luck at Bohaterow Monte Casino located in the city's center and visit the artsy Grand Hotel.

AUSCHWITZ

One of the most popular places to visit in Poland is also one of its most dreadful. Auschwitz was a Nazi work/death camp during World War II. Today people come to the camp, located 50km west of Krakow, for many reasons. Some out of curiosity, some out of respect. It is less a place for tourism than a quest for answers or closure for hundreds of thousands who come here each year. As you pass under the metal arch with the words "Arbeit Macht Frei" ("Work Makes You Free") above you, you feel a quickening in your heart in knowing that those who took the same path during World War II were not as lucky as you. For many, as you will see during a tour through the Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum, it was the lowest form of living possible.

The camp is huge. It extends about 50 acres, the largest and most horrific camp in history. Around 1.5 million people, mostly Polish Jews, were killed on these grounds from 1940 until the Soviet liberation occurred in January of 1945. The blocks were designed to hold an astounding 700 prisoners, yet the Nazis would force about 2000 of them into the already bulging quarters. But luckily for them, they were at Auschwitz. Had they been picked to go to Birkenau instead, their already slim chance for survival would have dwindled to almost nothing. Only 2 miles away, this is the camp where Jews were brought in from all over Europe to be gassed – at one point, the Nazis were gassing 20000 Jews a day here.

Many of the camp structures at Auschwitz have been preserved. Items from prisoners are displayed in the Museum of Martyrdom – items like suitcases with names written in a white (supposedly written by prisoners before they took their deadly showers, thinking that they'd be able to retrieve their belongings when they got out), shoes, clothes, and glasses. One particularly disturbing exhibit is the hair exhibit. There is a long case which holds over two tons of women's hair. The hair was used for bartering, as it was used for weaving fabric and stuffing upholstery.

This is not a place for the light-hearted. Nor, understandably, do they allow children under the age of 13. Visitors don't come here to joke or laugh. You don't see tourists lining their family up next to an exhibit to take a holiday picture. The mood is somber and feeling is guilt. Guilt that you ever thought your life was hard. There are silent, muffled cries. There are strong men breaking down. There are ex-prisoners reliving for the first time. There are relatives of those who died wondering if those brown shoes were their father's. Why visit? Unless you do, you won't fully understand.

TATRA MOUNTAINS AND ZAKOPANE

100 km south of Krakow are the incredible Tatra Mountains. Captivating with beautiful alpine vistas, it's easy to see why this is one of the favorite places to visit in Poland. The Tatra Mountain range shares two countries' borders, Poland and Slovakia. The range is about 60km long and 15km wide. Ride the Mt Kasprowy Weirch Cable Car to the summit. Here you can actually "be in two places at once" – place one foot in Poland and the other in Slovakia. Then visit the emerald gem of the Tatras, a famous lake called Morskie Oko. It truly is one of the loveliest spots in the mountains.

At the base of the Tatras is a quaint highland village, Zakopane. Zakopane is the most famous resort in Poland and is the country's capital for hiking, climbing, and skiing. It is a popular destination for people all over the world, yet it has been able to maintain its small-town charm even today. Stop in at the Tatra Museum and learn about the Highlander customs (it used to be an area for sheep farmers) while learning about this revered mountain chain's natural history.

There are many things to see in Poland, only a few of which are touched upon here. But the most wonderful reason for visiting this country would be the Polish citizens. A more generous, warm, hospitable people you'd be hard-pressed to find. There is one thing that has carried them through all their trials and tribulations. Just look at their smiles. From the little children gleefully running around Old Town Warsaw, to the toothless man grinning as you walk past him on Sopot's Pier, they're genuinely happy to see you. It's a wonderful lesson of optimism and appreciation of life from which we all can learn.

[valpomike]

I have been to all of those and than some. Yes, Poland is a great place, but don't try and see it all in just a few weeks. Plan on no less than a month, even with it being the size of New Mexico, there is much to see and do.

Mike