Polish eateries appreciated and recommended

[Bonobo]

Abrams' Tower, Wroclaw


abrams The extraordinary Abram's Tower restaurant in Wroclaw


This is an extraordinary place housed inside a medieval tower. It was started by a Californian multimedia artist who's lived in Europe for more than 20 years, and his Polish chef, who spent five years in London learning to make a wide variety of exotic dishes and his own inventive masterpieces. Together they offer the best burritos in the city, authentic -tasting Thai soups, tikka masala, tajines, couscous and delicious fusion dishes such as salmon with sausage and parmesan chicken. They also play global music that is rarely heard anywhere else.
ul. Krainskiego 14, [phone], abramstower.pl



Cafe Mlynek, Krakow

This is a beautiful vegetarian restaurant with a candlelit, cosy atmosphere. You can relax in the stunning interior, while listening to the score from Amélie (well, when I was there anyway). The food is delicious and you get traditional Polish food, vegetarian style.
Plac Wolnica 7, [phone], cafemlynek.pl




Once Upon A Time In Kazimierz, Krakow

A little restaurant in the heart of Krakow's old Jewish ghetto, this is a slightly bonkers but very endearing place to dine. The menu is simple, with possibly no more than a dozen dishes including starters, mains and desserts. And be advised: if you order a plate of pirogi (the local dumplings), you get just that: no salad, sides, or even sauce. Despite this, the food is delicious (I recommend the duck with cranberry). The decor is quirky, full of history, and the tables are an eclectic mix of old sewing desks and things that resemble small workbenches.
ul. Szeroka 1, [phone]



Farina, Krakow

This restaurant, a couple of minutes from Rynek Glowny (the historic market square) has a menu comprising Mediterranean dishes, pasta, traditional Polish cuisine and – its speciality – fresh fish. It's a charming venue: the decoration is rustic, with light green walls, wooden furniture, wooden shutters and subdued lighting. The food, too, was excellent, well cooked, well presented and very tasty. And, though not the cheapest place to eat in Krakow, it was very good value.
ul. Marka 16, [phone]


Bar Mleczny Turystyczny, Gdansk

A bar mleczny (literally "milk bar") is a type of very cheap restaurant, which serves Polish national dishes. Bar Mleczny Turystyczny, situated right in the centre of the port city of Gdansk, is a unique place in which you can have a quality full meal for as little as 50p. You can often meet backpackers from different parts of the world there.
Szeroka 8/10


CAFES AND BARS
Alchemia bar, Krakow
Alchemia bar Alchemia bar, Krakow. Photograph: Alamy

Alchemia is a great bar snuggled into the corner of Plac Nowy. The interior is illuminated by candlelight, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. They have a great selection of beers, vodkas, divine "real" hot chocolate and great cakes (chocolate and cherry was my favourite). I can't think of anywhere nicer to install yourself on a cold evening in Krakow.
ul. Estery 5 (corner of Plac Nowy), alchemia.com.pl




Pod Kogutkiem, Krakow

This tiny cafe in the old Jewish quarter of Kazimierz looks more like a sitting room, and you can spend as much time as you like there. The owner is the barista, and makes the best coffee I've had in Krakow. He doesn't talk much to customers, but really likes to chat with his friend, who is an artist and sells his works right there in the cafe.
ul. Jozefa 11



Bona Bookshop and Coffee House, Krakow

This small bookshop and cafe on a very attractive street close to the main centre has wonderful coffee, biscuits and cake, a clean loo and friendly staff. You can sit undisturbed and gaze out of the open door or sit outside if it's fine.
ul. Kanonicka



Massolit Books and Cafe, Krakow

Tucked away down a side street on the east side of Krakow is Massolit Books and Cafe. If you ever wanted your favourite secondhand bookshop to have comfy sofas, good coffee and excellent cake, here it is. Although I don't read much at home, I love to read authors of the country I'm visiting, but it's not always easy to find them translated. Here you can. Could take you an hour, could take you all morning, the sun gently filtering through the blinds.
ul. Felicjanek 4, massolit.com


Spiz, Wroclaw

Spiz is a pub on the corner of the market square. It is a microbrewery serving the best beer in Wroclaw, perhaps even Poland. Plus you also get a free bread and smalec (dripping).
Rynek-Ratusz 2



Miedzy Nami, Warsaw

Meaning, "between us", this cafe-bar is a hidden gem in the hustle and bustle of central Warsaw. Full of local arty types, this is a mixed bar (meaning gay- and straight-friendly) that appeals to folk of all ages and nationalities. It really gives visitors an insight into the cool and prosperous side of Poland. Lush.
ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com


www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/apr/05/poland-warsaw-krakow-readers-tips

[Bonobo]

www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/apr/08/warsaw-krakow-poland-experts-tips

The locals' guide to Warsaw and Krakow

Bloggers from the Spotted by Locals network share tips on Poland's big two – from the world's greatest poster museum in Warsaw to a classic Krakow milk bar

Consonni cake shop in Krakow

Sweet spot ... Consonni cake shop, Krakow. Photograph: Jola Jankowska

KRAKOW
Kiełbaski pod Hala Targowa – mouthwatering sausages

Spotted by Anna Wontorczyk
Appearances can be deceptive. If you saw this sausage stand, you probably wouldn't give it a second glance and you certainly wouldn't stop to buy anything. But you would have missed the opportunity to taste the best sausages in town. That's the thing with street food, it often looks shady but it's usually great. The men who prepare the sausages use a wood-burning grill, and that's what makes them so flavourful. The bread rolls are always fresh and crunchy. It's simple, it's fast, it's convenient and it's open when everything else is closed. If you stop by after a long night of partying, don't be surprised to find a queue of night owls – from students on a budget to politicians and celebrities. Bring your own drink to wash it all down. Napkins not provided.
• Stare Miasto. Open Mon-Sat 8pm-3am
Kawiarnia Naukowa – anarchy in the café

Spotted by Karolina Kolodziej
This place has existed – on the edge of legality – for years. Kawiarna Naukowa (meaning "the science cafeteria'") is famous for promoting various forms of activism: independent associations and organisations fighting for human rights, emerging bands and young creatives, as well as attracting anarchists. They hold screenings, debates, exhibitions and concerts (mostly heavy music, but sometimes jazz).
• Jakuba 29-31, Kazimierz. Open Mon-Thu 6pm–last client, Fri 5pm-last client, Sat-Sun 4pm-last client

Consonni – perfect pastries

Spotted by Jola Jankowska
The kruszonka from Consonni is just irresistible. What is kruszonka? It is a big, round, crusty pastry covered with crumble that tastes similar to an Italian biscotti. It is very simple yet decidedly good – like I imagine Italian pastries to be. Which is not surprising as the bakery and its recipes originate from near Milan – they've been in Krakow for 17 years now. As well as kruszonka, you'll find sophisticated flavours of ice-cream in tubs, and my friend claims the doughnuts here are the biggest in Krakow. The prices are above average, but if you are on a tight budget, you can get kruszonka and other pastries for half price every other day (delivery on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays).
• ul. Szpitalna 26, Stare Miasto. Open Sun-Mon 10am-6pm, Tue-Sat 9am-6pm
Mleczarnia – old-schoool café

Spotted by Damian Olek
Mleczarnia is a rustic cafe-pub in Meiselsa 20, in the Kazimierz district, where time has stood still. Old photographs, paintings, wooden furniture and music from gramophones gives this place a really nice "Kazimierz" feeling. In Mleczarnia you can try great apples in caramel with cinnamon and whipped cream, pierogi (Polish dumplings), and a big variety of vodka and wine. The cafe is famous for its exhibitions, concerts, and happenings. Mleczarnia is also the perfect place to go for a drink in summer because of its big garden, which is lit up with candles at night.
• ul. Meiselsa 20, Kazimierz, [phone]. Open daily 10am-midnight
Pod Temida – classic milk bar

Spotted by Karolina Kolodziej
Bar mleczny (milk bar) is a typical Polish canteen. The main features are regional cuisine, big portions, low prices, slightly poorly decorated interiors and a rather unpleasant lady in an apron serving and calling you "my kid" – no matter what your age. The first milk bars appeared in Poland at the end of 19th century, but they had their heyday in the second half of the 20th century. Now they are disappearing, being forced out by more commercial places. However some of them, particularly those in the city centre, are being refreshed and are attracting not only locals, but also tourists. It's quick, it's tasty and it's cheap. What more do you need?
• Grodzka 43, Stare Miasto, [phone]. Open daily 9am-8pm
Kino pod baranami – cinema café

Spotted by Karolina Kolodziej
At Kino pod baranami, in the main market square, you can watch Polish films with English subtitles every other Tuesday. It's a small non-commercial cinema with a couple of screening rooms and a cafeteria – no special effects. They've won quite a lot of awards – including best European cinema (judged by programme) – as they often get involved with different kinds of festivals and events. They co-operate with a similar place called ARS, also in the city centre.
• Rynek Główny 27, Stare Miasto, kinopodbaranami.pl






Warszawa


Powiśle – station bar

Spotted by Maciej Golaszewski
A kiosk with culture and vodka – that's how the owners describe Warsaw's hippest spot launched in the summer of 2009 in a carefully restored modernist building of a former railway ticket-office, and still bearing the name of the station and its neon sign. In short Warszawa Powiśle can be described as part-time cafe (serving takeaway coffee from 9am) and part-time cultural institution, providing a vast array of unusual activities – curiously themed discos and concerts, debates, culture and politics combined with art exhibitions and yard sales. An usual evening at Warszawa Powiśle is trademarked by throngs of people outside (even in winter) – because the place is relatively small and smoking is prohibited. So if you're looking for a tasty breakfast or craving a snack during the long walk around the famous, once working-class Powiśle district (which should be on everyone's Warsaw sightseeing list), or if just want to listen to some good music, this should be your first choice.
• ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, 00-380, Sródmiescie, [phone]. Open from 10am daily, takeaway coffee from 9am
Powiększenie – for indie music fans

Spotted by Maciej Gołaszewski
Named after the famous Antonioni flick (Powiększenie means Blow-Up), and run by the guys who manage Warsaw's other famous music venue, Plan Be, Powiększenie has only been open for two years, but has become the ultimate spot in the city for indie music fans. During the day it's an ordinary cafe in a quiet yard just few metres from the busy Nowy Świat street. But it really comes into its own at night – DJs and wild parties lasting till early morning (the most famous are funk/soul nights, when the club is packed to its limits). But they also stage concerts – on a relatively small stage, you can see some of the best names on the Polish and international indie scene. More importantly, it's cheap – you won't pay more than £8-10 for the most famous indie acts.
• ul. Nowy Świat 27, Sródmiescie, [phone]. Open from 11am daily
Muzeum Plakatu w Wilanowie – the poster museum

Spotted by Maciej Gołaszewski
Located on the outskirts of Warsaw, but definitely worth the trip. When it was opened in the late 60s, it was the first museum in the world devoted entirely to the art of posters. Now it is the host of one of the biggest collections of Polish and international posters, consisting of more than 55,000 items – a vast collection, so each exhibition is based around a specific theme. The building is an old horse-riding school which used to be the part of the adjacent Wilanów Palace – quite impressive on the outside but rather boring in comparison with the attractions provided by Poster Museum. An obligatory spot for fans of modern visual arts and a unique opportunity to fall in love with the "Polish school of Posters". Check the museum's website for current exhibitions or temporary closures which seem to occur quite often.
• ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, Wilanów, postermuseum.pl. Open Mon 12pm-4pm, Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Entrance: 10zl (£2.20)
Oberza pod Czerwonym Wieprzem – cold war restaurant

Spotted by Stefan Markiewicz
This is a great restaurant offering a wide range of dishes – but mostly meat. The restaurant is characterized by its PRL (Poland between 1952 to 1990) style, and all dishes are named after different communist icons, such as Mao's chicken or Kadar's Hungarian potato pancake. It offers many traditional Polish dishes together with good beer in an atmosphere that's hard to describe. My favourite combination is Polish-style duck à la Cyrankiewicz, which is an oven roasted duck served with cherry sauce, roasted apple and beetroot, for £9.50. If you like beer, order a Zywiec, or if you are with some friends, order a beer tube. Unfortunately it's not the cheapest place but the food is great.
• Żelazna 68, Wola, [phone], czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12pm until last guest leaves
Słodki...Słony – the kingdom of cakes

Spotted by Kasia Boni
Słodki…Słony is run by Magda Gessler, the queen of the Warsaw gastronomy scene. A tiny place squeezed between a designer glasses shop and a flower boutique, the window displays chocolate biscuits, pink meringues, and cakes with raspberries sauce. Inside, there are small tables – just for two – and cakes all over the place. I have never eaten such delicious desserts: short crust pastry with caramel and almond cloud on a top, or buns filled with rose, plum, or cherry marmalade, or crunchy yet fudgey meringues with pistachios, or the cake named after Agnieszka Osiecka (the famous Polish author) – bright pink icing and soft vanilla cream sprinkled with fresh flowers. But Słodki…Słony is not only about sweets (its means "Sweet…Salty"). If you bypass all these cakes, upstairs, in a room with frescoes on the walls, lunch is served: salads, omelettes, sandwiches, pastas, soups – all of them are made from the best ingredients. They are great, but I rarely get there – I almost always stay in the kingdom of cakes.
• Mokotowska 45, Sródmiescie, [phone], slodkislony.pl. Open daily 10am-midnight
Misianka – cake in the park

Spotted by Maciej Gołaszewski
One of the most famous cake shops in town located in one of the most beautiful parks in Warsaw, Park Skaryszewski, this is a small building that for years used to be a public toilet (this is a very common practice throughout the city). Be prepared for the sweet feast as the portions are big and so is the variety (on weekdays there are at least eight different cakes, double that on the weekend). If you have a problem choosing, stick with the classics such as macedonian cake or bitter. But go no later than early afternoon, because such is its popularity, the cakes disappear quickly.
• Park Skaryszewski, Praga Poludnie. Open daily 11am

[vratislavian]

If I may:

Any Bar Mleczny (see here wroclawworkshops.blogspot.com/2011/03/bar-mleczny.html)

Will add more.

[valpomike]

Can't bring up your site.

Mike

[vratislavian]

Thanks for letting me know, Mike.

I've worked it out now.

Will add to that site with a review of Bistro Przedwojenna later.

[Bonobo]

Apr 12, 2011 17:01:45 GMT 1 vratislavian said:

If I may:

Any Bar Mleczny (see here wroclawworkshops.blogspot.com/2011/03/bar-mleczny.html)

Will add more.

Your profile on your website says you like heavy metal and bird-watching. It is a pretty unusual combination to me as I love metal music but abhor birds. ;D ;D ;D ;D

[vratislavian]

Off topic: Will you be at Sonisphere?

[Bonobo]

Apr 12, 2011 22:21:49 GMT 1 vratislavian said:

Off topic: Will you be at Sonisphere?

No. I stopped going to concerts about 10 years ago. I prefer clear studio recordings to gig harsh/hoarse sounds.

[tufta]

The guy has a restaurant appreciated internationally and doesn't use a drop of olive oil. Instead 5 types of local Polish oils including saffron milk cup's oil. Never even heard of it! 95% of components and ingredients he uses are Polish. And he serves something like that as a starter


these are potatoes from real campfire, though a small one

and his restaurant is placed nicely out of the wild crowd zone (though close to the wild politician's zone Ulica Agrykola)




"Atelier Amaro has been open for less than a year but became the first Polish restaurant to gain a "Michelin Rising Star", indicating that Amaro is on the right track in his quest to elevate Polish cuisine to a new international standard.

Amaro puts an emphasis on ingredients and reconstructing dishes from their essential elements, putting him in a similar mold as celebrated "food scientists" like Adria, Britain's Heston Blumenthal or Rene Redzepi of the Danish restaurant Noma that was recently voted the world's best restaurant for the third straight year.

At Atelier Amaro, classic recipes like hare in cream are reimagined -- "we cook it for 72 hours at 65 degrees, so its more like fois gras or butter and is eaten with a spoon" -- while the kitchen is also a lab in which to experiment with Polish ingredients hardly used anymore like chokeberries, wild herbs and edible flowers.

As Poles becomes more interested in their culinary culture, Amaro believes the time is now right for Poland to takes it place at the table of internationally respected cuisine.

"We've spent 20 years (since communism) catching up in every department of life -- getting good jobs, starting companies, getting mortgages. Now it's a new country and people are starting to say, 'What about Polish products and our traditions?'

"We can't be amazed anymore by pizza or some French dishes. We are ready to search for our products and be proud of them."

Send in your best photos and videos of Poland

Outside of the country attitudes to Polish food have been slowly improving, says restaurateur Jan Woroneicki, the British owner of London's Baltic restaurant and bar.

"Old school perceptions that its all potatoes and cabbage are being revised, but there are still suspicions," he says.

"In soups and stews Polish cooking is equal to or greater than other cuisines, and generally quality is improving, but for restaurants it can still be a bit tricky finding quality produce like charcuterie and supply lines are not great."

Even if Polish gastronomy doesn't challenge cuisine like Thai food as an international phenomenon, Amaro hopes his restaurant can do for Polish food what Noma has done for Nordic cuisine.

"Compared to Denmark, Poland is much more diverse, so if we are wise and careful about promoting Polish cuisine... we can be one of the most influential and really big cuisines like French, Italian and Spanish. There's lots of work to be done, but I think its going to happen."

[tufta]

Bo, may I ask you a favour,please? Next time you come to Warsaw could you please go to the newly opened bar/restaurant I've just learned about and tell us how it was? Please. Ti prego. Yaprashu.







I hear it is the first restaurant serving insects etcetera. The name of the place is 'Co to to je'. Ulica Nugat.

Bon apeitite ;D

[jeanne]

.

[Bonobo]

Feb 6, 2013 18:52:07 GMT 1 tufta said:

"Atelier Amaro has been open for less than a year but became the first Polish restaurant to gain a "Michelin Rising Star", i

It still functions.
atelieramaro.pl/

[Bonobo]

Feb 7, 2013 15:22:00 GMT 1 tufta said:

Warsaw could you please go to the newly opened bar/restaurant I've just learned about and tell us how it was? Please. Ti prego. Yaprashu.



I hear it is the first restaurant serving insects etcetera. The name of the place is 'Co to to je'. Ulica Nugat.

Bon apeitite ;D

I am sorry, I didn`t visit the place. In result, I couldn`t recommend it. In result, it was closed in 2018. Pity.