Post by Bonobo on Apr 6, 2021 10:04:35 GMT 1
Let`s look at Polish females who became wives of Kings and Princes in other European countries.
www.onet.pl/styl-zycia/onetkobieta/polka-zostala-zona-cara-i-zapoczatkowala-w-rosji-prawdziwa-rewolucje-obyczajowa/dh7et3b,2b83378a
Evfimiya-Agafya Semyonovna Grushetskaya ( 1663 - 14 [24] July 1681 , Moscow ) - Russian queen of Polish origin [1] . From July 18 ( July 28 ), 1680 , the wife of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich . She gave birth to the only child who died in infancy - Tsarevich Ilya Fedorovich .
The representative of the noble family Grushetsky , daughter of the governor Semyon Fedorovich Grushetsky . She died on the third day after giving birth on July 14 ( July 24 ), 1681 from fever [2] . She was buried in the Ascension Monastery [3] . She was reburied in the underground chamber of the southern extension of the Archangel Cathedral in 1929 .
The biggest entry one her is in Russian wiki so you need to go there and translate coz it contains more info than I am able to present here:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agafya_Grushetskaya
Excerpts fromn Russian wiki
Queen Agafya Semyonovna
Icon "St. Fedor Stratilat and the Great Martyr. Agafya ". Contribution of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich and Agafya Semyonovna Grushetskaya to the Alexander Assumption Monastery
Immediately after the wedding, the tsar started building a new wooden choir for himself and his wife, as well as for his sisters, larger and smaller princesses. His mansions were erected near the tower near the western wall of the Resurrection tower church ; Natalia Kirillovna's mansions were also moved here [34] .
Agafya Semyonovna exerted a strong influence on her husband [35] and played a significant role in court life [36] [37] . Under her influence, court life also changed significantly [29] . Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich was the first Russian to put on a Polish dress , which was followed by all the courtiers, canceled the custom of shaving his head and began to wear long hair [16] . Historian Ivan Ivanovich Golikov wrote:
“The tsar did not like pomp neither in dress, nor in the table, nor in headdress. This economy was supported by the monarch with an order not to wear Tatar dress and ordered to walk in a similar Polish, or ancient Russian, northern climate typical ” [38] [39] .
Many innovations were introduced in the royal chambers. Many courtiers - and not frivolous young people, but important elderly boyars - began to trim their beards and smoke tobacco openly, and some of them, in addition, began to wear short-brimmed German dress. Agafya brought a lot of good to the Russian state , she: " persuaded her husband to destroy the ohabni , ugly women's dresses ... to introduce shaving of beards and hair cutting, Polish sabers and kuntushi and, more importantly, to allow the establishment of Polish and Latin schools in Moscow " [4]... The warriors finally got rid of the shameful feminine obscenities that were supposed to be worn by military men who fled from the battlefield. Due to her influence, several Latin and Polish schools were founded in Moscow. Also, due to her influence, it was ordered to remove from churches special icons that parishioners put in their churches, each for himself, as his patron gods (only they prayed to these icons and lit a candle, others did not allow anyone) [23] .
All these innovations could not fail to cause some rumors, gossip and intrigue to appear in Moscow. Talk about the tsar's intention to accept the "Polish (Lyatsk) faith" began to appear, and they remembered here and Dmitry the Pretender and Marina Mnishek . According to the historian Daniil Lukich Mordovtsev , Princess Sofia Alekseevna could not help but lead all these intrigues [23] .
In addition, she allowed herself to appear openly in front of people and often sat and walked next to the king, which had never happened before. The courage of the young queen could be a consequence of her more free upbringing than was then accepted in Moscow. She had a decisive character, which made it possible, according to the historian Pavel Vladimirovich Sedov, to step over the age-old bans of the Moscow court. The presence of Tsarina Agafya Semyonovna next to Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich changed the established habitual way of court life of that time [40] .
Queen Agafya also made a revolution in women's court fashion, she herself wore a hat in the Polish fashion, which left her hair open [41] . After the death of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich, even Tsarevna Ekaterina Alekseevna wore “a hat and a dress in the Polish style ... threw her Moscow caftans, stopped braiding her hair in one braid ” [42] . Also, Princess Maria Alekseevna dressed "in Polish" [42] .
Historian Pavel Vladimirovich Sedov believes that even before the wedding, Agafya Semyonovna's manner of dress went beyond the Moscow customs, which could also contribute to drawing the attention of the tsar to her in the crowd of people [10] . He also characterizes the queen Agafya Semyonovna as a pious Moscow queen, full of virtues, merciful and intercession before the king even for her ill-wishers [40] .
In addition to the forgiveness of Ivan Miloslavsky, another fact speaks about the virtuous character of Agafya Semyonovna - at that time Bogdan Fedorovich Polibin , who was sitting in the Bond's order (later - the order judge), is a truthful man and revered by people, but whom Miloslavsky also did not like, having extreme need , borrowed 300 rubles, mortgaging the village, but could not return the entire debt on time. Clerkhis order advised him to take money from the order, how much is lacking, and pay in time. This was reported to Miloslavsky, who reported to the sovereign that Judge Polybin had stolen 300 rubles from the treasury. The sovereign, believing this, ordered him to be punished and exiled. The queen, hearing this, asked Miloslavsky why and how he did it, to which he replied that he did not ask how the whole thing was. To this, the Empress angrily reprimanded him that he condemned a person without trial and, not knowing the true case, informs the emperor. The empress ordered to investigate the whole case, learned more about Polybin and, having learned everything in detail, sent 300 rubles with Ivan Potemkin. In addition to the fact that the queen saved Polybin from trouble, she also generously rewarded him [43] [44] .
What is also remarkable - under Agafya Semyonovna, the princesses received some financial independence. Previously, the princesses' rooms brought goods bought by them or taken on credit by order of the chamber's workshop . Now the princesses themselves could order to buy this or that thing for themselves, commanding to pay for the purchase in the order [45] .
Sovereign Fyodor Alekseevich, together with Tsarina Agafya Semyonovna, placed images of the patron saints of the royal family in the iconostasis of the Sretensky monastery cathedral in 1680 . At the same distance from the royal gates were located icons of St. Theodore Stratilates and the holy Martyr Agathia [46] . A similar icon was transferred to the Alexander Dormition Monastery [47] . In addition, the Murom Museum of History and Art contains an icon from the cathedral of the Suzdal Rizpolozhensky Monastery (icon painter Kuzma Yakovlev Babukhin, 1681, VSMZ), which depicts thirteen saints - the patrons of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich and his wife Agafya Semyonovna Grushetskaya (as well as the Tsar's stepmother - the second wife of Alexei Mikhailovich, Natalia Kirillovna Naryshkina, as well as all the brothers and sisters of Fyodor Alekseevich) [48] .
Under the tsarina, there were also courtyard nobles : Grushetskaya Marya Matveevna, Cunning Anna Petrovna (she is also a courtyard noblewoman and Agafya Semyonovna's mother - Grushetskaya Marya Matveevna), Gorchakova Agafya Romanovna, Plescheeva Fedora Ivanovna, Velyaminova Svetiina (she is Arina Fyodorovna) Ivanovna, Polteva Anna Ivanovna, Neelova Fedosya Ivanovna (from the treasurer of Tsarevich Fyodor, later tonsured in 1688) [49] .
Influence on fashion
With the arrival of Agafya Semyonovna at the palace, serious changes took place at the court in the palace wardrobe. The young queen, according to contemporaries, persuaded the tsar to abolish ohabni , “ to cut hair and shave beards, wear sabers on the side and dress in Polish kuntushi ” [50] [51] .
Queen Agafya made a revolution in women's court fashion. She herself wore a hat in the Polish fashion, which left her hair open, which went beyond the Moscow customs of that time [41] . In the tailoring and expenditure books (which are now kept in the fund of the Armory ) of the Tsarina's Workshop of the 1680-1682 years, there is a number of news about the production of hats for the Tsarina and the princesses " for the Polish cause ." Following the young queen, the younger princesses also began to dress in Polish fashion : “ Catherine , wears a hat and dress in Polish style, abandoned her Moscow caftans , stopped braiding her hair in one braid . Maria, more beautiful than Catherine, and this one dressed in Polish ” [51] .
The first mention of the "Polish hats" of Queen Agafia dates back to September 19, 1680. In the palace that day, the name days of Princess Sofya Alekseevna were celebrated , and for Agafya Semyonovna “a velvet hat was sewn for the Polish business, for about a couple of sables <...>, velvet was cut two tops, on the underside there were a quarter of the floor of the ridges of linen. Take the Pole Semyon Vasiliev, son of Kareshenkov, to do the Novomeschanskaya settlement. He was also given to make another velvet hat al the same, around sable <...>, circling silver arshin " [51]... And the next day, September 20, for the greatest fashionistas in the royal palace, the young princesses Catherine and Mary, they also made "Polish hats", which, according to the historian Pavel Vladimirovich Sedov, followed from the fact that the new headdress of the queen was a success on palace festival [51] .
Wealthy polkas of those times wore velvet hats with marten , beaver and sable fur lapels . Under the hat itself, they wore a rantukh (a traditional Polish female headdress, which is a large blanket of light thin fabric that covers the head and shoulders). The edges of the Polish welt were trimmed with embroidery or gold embroidery. Rantukh securely covered the hair, while the girls' hair could be slightly covered. Polish court ladies of the second half of the 17th century already left their hair open [52]... However, there is no information about the materials for the rantukh, from which, according to the historian Pavel Vladimirovich Sedov, it should be assumed that Agafya Semyonovna did not completely cover her hair, but removed it with lace, which is why in Moscow documents such hats were sometimes called "girlish" [51 ] .
On September 21, 1680, the royal family left on a pilgrimage to the Trinity-Sergius Monastery , and by that day “ two girls' hats were cut for the queen, they were cut out in silver [K 3] silver-plated arms ” 6 vershoks , “ about a couple of sables ”. Followed by young queen hats for the Polish steel fashion wear and court Boyarina [51] .
On October 11, 1680, by the order of the queen, “a cap was made over the yellow earth, along it a stream and herbs of gold, and the grasses were silver-plated, an embrace of a polarshina came into the cut, about one and a half sables ,” “ on the lining, a worm-like pole was cut off. The Pole was cut by Semyon Kashpenkov . " The queen presented the sewn hat to her aunt Avdotya Nikitichna Zaborovskaya. On October 12, Semyon Kapasheninov, a shaposha master of the Novomeschanskaya Sloboda , was paid 25 kopecks for making four "Polish hats", including for two embraces and " for two w Altabas on golden land with sables ". Queen Agafya presented several of the new-fashioned hats that were sewn on the same day. She gave one of them to the wife of her butler - a Duma nobleman Nikita Ivanovich Akinfov . To her sister Fyokla Semyonovna, who married the boyar Fyodor Semyonovich Urusov , she presented a triukh cut from pieces of altabas left over from the "Polish hats" [51] .
On October 22, 1680, on the feast of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God , 4 more new-fashioned headdresses were tailored for the queen: “ A hat for the Polish business velvet al dvoemorh, there are gold burrs on it, velvet came out in cut ” 10 vershoks, “ chosen in places, but about one and a half sable, <…> and a couple of sables on the underside ”; “ Three hats for the Polish business, atlabas on the silver ground, along it herbs and leaves of gold, an arshin came out in the cut, <...> and two pairs of sables on the outskirts <…>, and on the underside of three pairs of sables” [51] .
In the next 4 cold months, no mention of "Polish hats" can be traced, probably for the reason that they were not worn in winter. Only on February 22, 1681, for Queen Agafia, “a worm velvet hat for the Polish business without holes was cut, six vershoks came out of velvet, about a couple of sables <...>, a third of the hem of the linen ridges was cut for the crown, a Pole shaper Semyon Kashpetnaya cut a Pole . Above the line to this entry is added: " exemplary ". The date of February 22 of that year fell on the second week of Lent , and the hat was most likely made for display only, as it was inappropriate to use it at that time. More tailoring and expenditure books of that time do not contain data on the manufacture of "Polish hats" for the young queen Agafya Semyonovna[51] . And in anticipation of childbirth, she wore headdresses already in her wardrobe [51] . On May 8, 1681, Queen Agafya leaves for Preobrazhenskoye and takes with her (along with the traditional Moscow triukhs) three “ Polskie hats: gold otlas vinitsa, zarfab gold, velvet al with tails ” [53] .
The introduced fashion for "Polish hats" took root in the palace. On April 28, 1681, a “Polish hat” was made of smooth velvet (which was used for a half of velvet) for Princess Maria Alekseevna . On December 23 of the same year (after the death of Queen Agafia) Semyon Shaposhnikov was paid 20 kopecks each for two velvet Polish hats for princesses Martha Alekseevna and Feodosia Alekseevna [53] .
After the death of Tsarina Agafya Semyonovna, the young Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich, on February 15, 1682, married sixteen-year-old Martha Matveyevna Apraksina , who was also carried away by the new fashion. On March 3, 1682, 5 vershoks of green velvet were released to the empress tsarina in the mansion on the Polish hat. On March 20 of the same year, the production of silk flowers was paid, which the wife of Colonel K. I. Arpov made specially " in coruna " Marfa Matveyevna. On April 15, a Pole shaposhnik Semyon Kaposheninov was paid 1 ruble for "Polish hats" for the queen (judging by the price, four or five such hats were made). After the death of Fyodor Alekseevich, the younger princesses Ekaterina Alekseevna and Feodosia Alekseevnacontinued to wear "Polish hats" [53] .
Among the queen's headdresses were also two kiki (one of the 1st outfit, the other 2 outfits), as well as 3 columnar hats (a high straight cap in the form of a pillar), among which:
“The columnar embraces it is silver on it, the herbs are gold from the sholka, the lining has a hot color; the edge of the sable plate. Stolbunets - silver zarbaf, on it there are gold herbs from the sholka; lining is white; without the edge ” [54] .
In 1682, two fur coats of the late queen were altered for the newlywed queen Martha Apraksina :
“ Two fur coats of the late queen Agafia Grushetskikh were remade for a fee with wide sleeves, the first one on March 28 - the grass and burdocks of Vinitsa on the silvery ground were occasionally oxamized, with white silk in outline; taffeta lining (cut in 189 November at 14 days); the second on March 30 - velvet of Vinitsa gold on it morch worms and double-headed eagles oxamized with gold and silver; lining is taffeta ala ” [54] .
www.onet.pl/styl-zycia/onetkobieta/polka-zostala-zona-cara-i-zapoczatkowala-w-rosji-prawdziwa-rewolucje-obyczajowa/dh7et3b,2b83378a
Evfimiya-Agafya Semyonovna Grushetskaya ( 1663 - 14 [24] July 1681 , Moscow ) - Russian queen of Polish origin [1] . From July 18 ( July 28 ), 1680 , the wife of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich . She gave birth to the only child who died in infancy - Tsarevich Ilya Fedorovich .
The representative of the noble family Grushetsky , daughter of the governor Semyon Fedorovich Grushetsky . She died on the third day after giving birth on July 14 ( July 24 ), 1681 from fever [2] . She was buried in the Ascension Monastery [3] . She was reburied in the underground chamber of the southern extension of the Archangel Cathedral in 1929 .
The biggest entry one her is in Russian wiki so you need to go there and translate coz it contains more info than I am able to present here:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agafya_Grushetskaya
Excerpts fromn Russian wiki
Queen Agafya Semyonovna
Icon "St. Fedor Stratilat and the Great Martyr. Agafya ". Contribution of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich and Agafya Semyonovna Grushetskaya to the Alexander Assumption Monastery
Immediately after the wedding, the tsar started building a new wooden choir for himself and his wife, as well as for his sisters, larger and smaller princesses. His mansions were erected near the tower near the western wall of the Resurrection tower church ; Natalia Kirillovna's mansions were also moved here [34] .
Agafya Semyonovna exerted a strong influence on her husband [35] and played a significant role in court life [36] [37] . Under her influence, court life also changed significantly [29] . Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich was the first Russian to put on a Polish dress , which was followed by all the courtiers, canceled the custom of shaving his head and began to wear long hair [16] . Historian Ivan Ivanovich Golikov wrote:
“The tsar did not like pomp neither in dress, nor in the table, nor in headdress. This economy was supported by the monarch with an order not to wear Tatar dress and ordered to walk in a similar Polish, or ancient Russian, northern climate typical ” [38] [39] .
Many innovations were introduced in the royal chambers. Many courtiers - and not frivolous young people, but important elderly boyars - began to trim their beards and smoke tobacco openly, and some of them, in addition, began to wear short-brimmed German dress. Agafya brought a lot of good to the Russian state , she: " persuaded her husband to destroy the ohabni , ugly women's dresses ... to introduce shaving of beards and hair cutting, Polish sabers and kuntushi and, more importantly, to allow the establishment of Polish and Latin schools in Moscow " [4]... The warriors finally got rid of the shameful feminine obscenities that were supposed to be worn by military men who fled from the battlefield. Due to her influence, several Latin and Polish schools were founded in Moscow. Also, due to her influence, it was ordered to remove from churches special icons that parishioners put in their churches, each for himself, as his patron gods (only they prayed to these icons and lit a candle, others did not allow anyone) [23] .
All these innovations could not fail to cause some rumors, gossip and intrigue to appear in Moscow. Talk about the tsar's intention to accept the "Polish (Lyatsk) faith" began to appear, and they remembered here and Dmitry the Pretender and Marina Mnishek . According to the historian Daniil Lukich Mordovtsev , Princess Sofia Alekseevna could not help but lead all these intrigues [23] .
In addition, she allowed herself to appear openly in front of people and often sat and walked next to the king, which had never happened before. The courage of the young queen could be a consequence of her more free upbringing than was then accepted in Moscow. She had a decisive character, which made it possible, according to the historian Pavel Vladimirovich Sedov, to step over the age-old bans of the Moscow court. The presence of Tsarina Agafya Semyonovna next to Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich changed the established habitual way of court life of that time [40] .
Queen Agafya also made a revolution in women's court fashion, she herself wore a hat in the Polish fashion, which left her hair open [41] . After the death of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich, even Tsarevna Ekaterina Alekseevna wore “a hat and a dress in the Polish style ... threw her Moscow caftans, stopped braiding her hair in one braid ” [42] . Also, Princess Maria Alekseevna dressed "in Polish" [42] .
Historian Pavel Vladimirovich Sedov believes that even before the wedding, Agafya Semyonovna's manner of dress went beyond the Moscow customs, which could also contribute to drawing the attention of the tsar to her in the crowd of people [10] . He also characterizes the queen Agafya Semyonovna as a pious Moscow queen, full of virtues, merciful and intercession before the king even for her ill-wishers [40] .
In addition to the forgiveness of Ivan Miloslavsky, another fact speaks about the virtuous character of Agafya Semyonovna - at that time Bogdan Fedorovich Polibin , who was sitting in the Bond's order (later - the order judge), is a truthful man and revered by people, but whom Miloslavsky also did not like, having extreme need , borrowed 300 rubles, mortgaging the village, but could not return the entire debt on time. Clerkhis order advised him to take money from the order, how much is lacking, and pay in time. This was reported to Miloslavsky, who reported to the sovereign that Judge Polybin had stolen 300 rubles from the treasury. The sovereign, believing this, ordered him to be punished and exiled. The queen, hearing this, asked Miloslavsky why and how he did it, to which he replied that he did not ask how the whole thing was. To this, the Empress angrily reprimanded him that he condemned a person without trial and, not knowing the true case, informs the emperor. The empress ordered to investigate the whole case, learned more about Polybin and, having learned everything in detail, sent 300 rubles with Ivan Potemkin. In addition to the fact that the queen saved Polybin from trouble, she also generously rewarded him [43] [44] .
What is also remarkable - under Agafya Semyonovna, the princesses received some financial independence. Previously, the princesses' rooms brought goods bought by them or taken on credit by order of the chamber's workshop . Now the princesses themselves could order to buy this or that thing for themselves, commanding to pay for the purchase in the order [45] .
Sovereign Fyodor Alekseevich, together with Tsarina Agafya Semyonovna, placed images of the patron saints of the royal family in the iconostasis of the Sretensky monastery cathedral in 1680 . At the same distance from the royal gates were located icons of St. Theodore Stratilates and the holy Martyr Agathia [46] . A similar icon was transferred to the Alexander Dormition Monastery [47] . In addition, the Murom Museum of History and Art contains an icon from the cathedral of the Suzdal Rizpolozhensky Monastery (icon painter Kuzma Yakovlev Babukhin, 1681, VSMZ), which depicts thirteen saints - the patrons of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich and his wife Agafya Semyonovna Grushetskaya (as well as the Tsar's stepmother - the second wife of Alexei Mikhailovich, Natalia Kirillovna Naryshkina, as well as all the brothers and sisters of Fyodor Alekseevich) [48] .
Under the tsarina, there were also courtyard nobles : Grushetskaya Marya Matveevna, Cunning Anna Petrovna (she is also a courtyard noblewoman and Agafya Semyonovna's mother - Grushetskaya Marya Matveevna), Gorchakova Agafya Romanovna, Plescheeva Fedora Ivanovna, Velyaminova Svetiina (she is Arina Fyodorovna) Ivanovna, Polteva Anna Ivanovna, Neelova Fedosya Ivanovna (from the treasurer of Tsarevich Fyodor, later tonsured in 1688) [49] .
Influence on fashion
With the arrival of Agafya Semyonovna at the palace, serious changes took place at the court in the palace wardrobe. The young queen, according to contemporaries, persuaded the tsar to abolish ohabni , “ to cut hair and shave beards, wear sabers on the side and dress in Polish kuntushi ” [50] [51] .
Queen Agafya made a revolution in women's court fashion. She herself wore a hat in the Polish fashion, which left her hair open, which went beyond the Moscow customs of that time [41] . In the tailoring and expenditure books (which are now kept in the fund of the Armory ) of the Tsarina's Workshop of the 1680-1682 years, there is a number of news about the production of hats for the Tsarina and the princesses " for the Polish cause ." Following the young queen, the younger princesses also began to dress in Polish fashion : “ Catherine , wears a hat and dress in Polish style, abandoned her Moscow caftans , stopped braiding her hair in one braid . Maria, more beautiful than Catherine, and this one dressed in Polish ” [51] .
The first mention of the "Polish hats" of Queen Agafia dates back to September 19, 1680. In the palace that day, the name days of Princess Sofya Alekseevna were celebrated , and for Agafya Semyonovna “a velvet hat was sewn for the Polish business, for about a couple of sables <...>, velvet was cut two tops, on the underside there were a quarter of the floor of the ridges of linen. Take the Pole Semyon Vasiliev, son of Kareshenkov, to do the Novomeschanskaya settlement. He was also given to make another velvet hat al the same, around sable <...>, circling silver arshin " [51]... And the next day, September 20, for the greatest fashionistas in the royal palace, the young princesses Catherine and Mary, they also made "Polish hats", which, according to the historian Pavel Vladimirovich Sedov, followed from the fact that the new headdress of the queen was a success on palace festival [51] .
Wealthy polkas of those times wore velvet hats with marten , beaver and sable fur lapels . Under the hat itself, they wore a rantukh (a traditional Polish female headdress, which is a large blanket of light thin fabric that covers the head and shoulders). The edges of the Polish welt were trimmed with embroidery or gold embroidery. Rantukh securely covered the hair, while the girls' hair could be slightly covered. Polish court ladies of the second half of the 17th century already left their hair open [52]... However, there is no information about the materials for the rantukh, from which, according to the historian Pavel Vladimirovich Sedov, it should be assumed that Agafya Semyonovna did not completely cover her hair, but removed it with lace, which is why in Moscow documents such hats were sometimes called "girlish" [51 ] .
On September 21, 1680, the royal family left on a pilgrimage to the Trinity-Sergius Monastery , and by that day “ two girls' hats were cut for the queen, they were cut out in silver [K 3] silver-plated arms ” 6 vershoks , “ about a couple of sables ”. Followed by young queen hats for the Polish steel fashion wear and court Boyarina [51] .
On October 11, 1680, by the order of the queen, “a cap was made over the yellow earth, along it a stream and herbs of gold, and the grasses were silver-plated, an embrace of a polarshina came into the cut, about one and a half sables ,” “ on the lining, a worm-like pole was cut off. The Pole was cut by Semyon Kashpenkov . " The queen presented the sewn hat to her aunt Avdotya Nikitichna Zaborovskaya. On October 12, Semyon Kapasheninov, a shaposha master of the Novomeschanskaya Sloboda , was paid 25 kopecks for making four "Polish hats", including for two embraces and " for two w Altabas on golden land with sables ". Queen Agafya presented several of the new-fashioned hats that were sewn on the same day. She gave one of them to the wife of her butler - a Duma nobleman Nikita Ivanovich Akinfov . To her sister Fyokla Semyonovna, who married the boyar Fyodor Semyonovich Urusov , she presented a triukh cut from pieces of altabas left over from the "Polish hats" [51] .
On October 22, 1680, on the feast of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God , 4 more new-fashioned headdresses were tailored for the queen: “ A hat for the Polish business velvet al dvoemorh, there are gold burrs on it, velvet came out in cut ” 10 vershoks, “ chosen in places, but about one and a half sable, <…> and a couple of sables on the underside ”; “ Three hats for the Polish business, atlabas on the silver ground, along it herbs and leaves of gold, an arshin came out in the cut, <...> and two pairs of sables on the outskirts <…>, and on the underside of three pairs of sables” [51] .
In the next 4 cold months, no mention of "Polish hats" can be traced, probably for the reason that they were not worn in winter. Only on February 22, 1681, for Queen Agafia, “a worm velvet hat for the Polish business without holes was cut, six vershoks came out of velvet, about a couple of sables <...>, a third of the hem of the linen ridges was cut for the crown, a Pole shaper Semyon Kashpetnaya cut a Pole . Above the line to this entry is added: " exemplary ". The date of February 22 of that year fell on the second week of Lent , and the hat was most likely made for display only, as it was inappropriate to use it at that time. More tailoring and expenditure books of that time do not contain data on the manufacture of "Polish hats" for the young queen Agafya Semyonovna[51] . And in anticipation of childbirth, she wore headdresses already in her wardrobe [51] . On May 8, 1681, Queen Agafya leaves for Preobrazhenskoye and takes with her (along with the traditional Moscow triukhs) three “ Polskie hats: gold otlas vinitsa, zarfab gold, velvet al with tails ” [53] .
The introduced fashion for "Polish hats" took root in the palace. On April 28, 1681, a “Polish hat” was made of smooth velvet (which was used for a half of velvet) for Princess Maria Alekseevna . On December 23 of the same year (after the death of Queen Agafia) Semyon Shaposhnikov was paid 20 kopecks each for two velvet Polish hats for princesses Martha Alekseevna and Feodosia Alekseevna [53] .
After the death of Tsarina Agafya Semyonovna, the young Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich, on February 15, 1682, married sixteen-year-old Martha Matveyevna Apraksina , who was also carried away by the new fashion. On March 3, 1682, 5 vershoks of green velvet were released to the empress tsarina in the mansion on the Polish hat. On March 20 of the same year, the production of silk flowers was paid, which the wife of Colonel K. I. Arpov made specially " in coruna " Marfa Matveyevna. On April 15, a Pole shaposhnik Semyon Kaposheninov was paid 1 ruble for "Polish hats" for the queen (judging by the price, four or five such hats were made). After the death of Fyodor Alekseevich, the younger princesses Ekaterina Alekseevna and Feodosia Alekseevnacontinued to wear "Polish hats" [53] .
Among the queen's headdresses were also two kiki (one of the 1st outfit, the other 2 outfits), as well as 3 columnar hats (a high straight cap in the form of a pillar), among which:
“The columnar embraces it is silver on it, the herbs are gold from the sholka, the lining has a hot color; the edge of the sable plate. Stolbunets - silver zarbaf, on it there are gold herbs from the sholka; lining is white; without the edge ” [54] .
In 1682, two fur coats of the late queen were altered for the newlywed queen Martha Apraksina :
“ Two fur coats of the late queen Agafia Grushetskikh were remade for a fee with wide sleeves, the first one on March 28 - the grass and burdocks of Vinitsa on the silvery ground were occasionally oxamized, with white silk in outline; taffeta lining (cut in 189 November at 14 days); the second on March 30 - velvet of Vinitsa gold on it morch worms and double-headed eagles oxamized with gold and silver; lining is taffeta ala ” [54] .